Cabled Socks
Stop here for small and continue on to Gussett. Medium and Large continue with the short rows until all the stitches are used up. ☺ If you end up on the wrong side, that’s fine, just turn and knit back across the sole. Make note of how many sole stitches you have on this needle. Gusset Set Up Round Knit up 21(22, 24) stitches by working into the back of the slipped stitches on the flap edge. PM and work one-half of the pattern stitches onto this needle. You should now only have one-half of the pattern stitches on the other needle nd
The pattern includes a ladies small, medium and large size Materials: Yarn: 100gr sock yarn; Needles: US #1 or US#2 Abbreviations C1B cable 1 back: slip stitch onto cable needle (I use a toothpick since it is the correct size) and hold in back. Knit the next stitch and then knit the stitch off the cable needle CO cast on st stitch K knit P purl Ssk slip slip knit K2tog knit 2 stitches together Sl 1 slip 1 stitch as if to purl WS wrong side RS right side PM place marker rnd round Pattern stitch Rnd1: C1B, P2 Rnd 2, 3, 4: K2, P2 CO 60 (64, 72) stitches. Join without twisting. Cuff: K2, P2 for 15 rnd Leg Shaft: Work in pattern for desired length. [I did eleven repeats of the pattern stitch because I like a longer shaft on the leg. I also used US#1 needles. Remember: larger needle + longer shaft = more yarn used]. Heel Flap: Working on only one circ needle and not working in the round: Row 1: (WS) move yarn in front of stitch and sl1 as if to purl *p1, sl1, repeat from * across and Knit the last stitch , turn Row 2: (RS) move yarn in front of stitch and sl1 as if to purl, knit across, turn Repeat rows 1 & 2 for a total of 32 or 33 rows. Heel: Row 1: (RS) with yarn in front, sl1 as if to purl, K20 (202 22) ssk, k1, turn. Row2: (WS) sl1, p13 (11, 11), turn Row 3: (RS) sl1, k14 (12, 12), turn Row 4: (WS) sl1, p15 (13, 13), turn Row 5: (RS) sl1, k16 (14, 14), turn Row 6: (WS) sl1, p17 (15, 15), turn Row 7: (RS) sl1, k18 (16, 16), turn Row 8: (WS) sl1, p19 (17, 17), turn
Work the remaining pattern stitches on the 2 needle, PM, and then knit up 21 (22, 24) stitches on the side of the flap like you did before. Now, work one-half of the SOLE stitches from the other needle onto this one. At this time, I usually pin a nd moveable marker into the fabric to denote the 2 circ side of the sock. You have just put the sock in profile which is easier to knit the gusset. Gusset: Rnd 1: knit to 3 st before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, work in C1B pattern to end of needle. Turn to other needle, work in C1B pattern to marker, slip marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of needle. Rnd2 and all even rnds: k around but keep the C1B pattern going Continue these 2 rnds until you have one-half of the starting CO stitches on each needle. You need to end up with the same number of stitches total as the CO. Foot: Now you can move your stitches around until you are working on the sole stitches on one needle and the top of the sock stitches on the other needle. Continue in the established pattern of C1B on the top of the sock and stockinette on the sole. If you are tired or bored of the C1B pattern, just knit all the way around and ignore the C1B pattern. ☺ I have small feet so I usually do about 65 rows for my foot (size 7.5 shoe) but you can keep trying the sock on until the foot is the length you like. Your mileage may vary. Toe: Rnd 1: k1, k2tog, k until 3 st left on needle, ssk, k1. Repeat nd on 2 needle Rnd 2: knit Rnd3: repeat rnd 1 Rnd 4, 6 and 8: knit Rnd 5, 7, 9, 10 etc repeat until there are 12 st left on each needle and then knit one more round. Break yarn leaving enough to graft your toe. Graft the toe using the Kitchener stitch. Weave in ends. Block and you are done.
