Developing a pattern for the “Tunic with funky underarm application” Copyright 2007, revised Jan. 2014 Julia May (Sayyeda al-Kaslaania) This system will help you develop a well-fitting and flattering garment with period lines.

Taking measurements What you will need:  A friend to take measurements  measuring tape  notepad and pen  patience Have your friend take the following measurements. You will need to look straight ahead while it’s done:  Fullest part of trunk (waist or butt or hips or bust; make sure it is level around the body)  Chest or Bust  Shoulder down front to fullest part of body (don’t let the tape wander around body parts)  Sleeve length (from shoulder blade, along back of arm to wrist. Elbow should be bent at about 90 degrees.)  Arm circumference (measure around the fullest part of the upper arm, or around the elbow, which ever is larger)  Shoulder to hem (measure to desired hem length) Fit-and-flare (to flatter the bust):  Shoulder to underbust (measure from the center top of the shoulder, over the bust to the under bust –where your bra band normally lays.) Let the tape fall over the bust, don’t follow the curve of the breast back to the body.  Point to point (center breast to center breast)  Underbust (along the bra support line; snug but not squishing)

Converting measurements to pattern numbers Most of us could not get into a skin-tight tunic so you need to add in “wearing ease” along with seam allowances. These are the numbers you will work with when planning and drawing the pattern, e.g. when “bust measurement” is called for below, use the “bust with wearing ease” number.       

Chest circumference allowances) Core circumference seam allowances) Sleeve length Sleeve circumference Sh. to underbust Sh. to hem Underbust circumference allowances)

Use chest or bust and add: 8-10 inches (4-6 inches will be taken by the seam Use fullest measurement and add: 8-10 inches (4-6 inches will be taken by the add: 2 inches (for top seam and bottom hem) Use Arm Circumference and add 3 inches if elbow; 4-5 inches if upper arm add nothing add: 2 inches (for top seam and bottom hem) Use underbust and add 8-10 inches (4-6 inches will be taken by the seam

When a range is give, remember that bigger is not always better. Undertunics should be slightly smaller than overtunics. For busty and square women, a garment that is slightly smaller under the bust and flares out from there can be quite flattering. For hippy women, a flowing fabric that glides closer over the hips can be slimming. Clingy or “sticky” fabrics should be given a bit more room in general. Some styles can use very full patterns (14 or more inches added to the fullest body measurement).

Sleeve cuffs Decide what your sleeve cuff will look like. There are several sleeve options: Square, slightly narrow, “duck-hand narrow,” slightly wide, and very wide.  “duck-hand narrow” is the smallest the sleeve hem can get—just big enough for your hand if you tuck your thumb in tight. Measure around the biggest part of your hand and add 1- 1/2 inch for the seam allowance.

Pattern pieces You will create the following pattern pieces:  Center body (2)  Sleeve (2)  Gore (4, or two on fold)  Facing (1) Notes on fitting different bodies:   

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Wear well fitting undergarments, and wear the clothes you’ll wear with it (undertunics, braes, modern bra, etc). If you plan to wear a belt with it, wear a belt when you’re hemming it. Let the garments do what they need to do. A friend has a shelf-butt, and the tunics never fall smoothly from the back to the butt—this takes up extra length. If we force it to be smooth during hemming, it will creep up while she wears it. That makes a short spot in the hem, which draws the eye up to the cause. For her, we always mark the hem after she’s walked around for a bit so the “creeping” becomes apparent and can be accommodated. When measuring to the bra band on women, remember that the fabric will not follow the shape of the breast into the body; it will hang away from the body. Measure to the point you visually want the seam to encounter the body. Adding fullness to the garment: o “clavi”—add strips of fabric along the center body panels, in a matching or contrasting color. o inverted box-pleats—make the side gores up to twice as wide and tuck the fabric into a box-pleat. This keeps the shape while standing and moving. o extra gores—triangular gores can be added along the body panels, or between the side gores.

Figure 1 Scarce, Jennifer. Women's Costume of the Near and Middle East. London: Unwin Hyman Ltd, 1987. P. 118.

Fit-and-flare tunic plan

Sleeve circumference= shoulder to underbust x 2 and + 1” for seam allowance Point to point + 1” = body Body (front) + Body (back) = core Underbust circumference – core = total sides Total sides ÷ 4 = side gore width (top) (left front, left back, right front, right back)

All-around comfortable tunic plan

Center body width: Adults— Standard sizes 10-12 inches Luxury sizes 12-15 inches Gore length: add ½ inch to ½ sleeve circumference. Subtract that total from the floor measurement. Add ½ inch.

shoulder to

Center body width + 1” = body Body (front) + Body (back) = core Chest circumference – core = total sides Total sides ÷ 4 = side gore width (top) (left front, left back, right front, right back) Check that the core circumference has enough fullness. For extra fullness: add gores. Insert gores between the side bodies (into the armpit), or along the body front and body back.

Figure 2 is a flat felled seam (also called a run-and-fell). Figure 3 is a French seam. Figure 4 is an inverted box pleat.

Figure 2http://www.pfaffusa.com/8142_8157.html

Figure 3 http://sewingcafewithlynne.blogspot.com/search?q=french+se ams

Figure 4 http://www.draperyconnection.com/node/78