Des Moines Rowing Club Introduction to Rowing Novice Packet Revised Summer 2006 Club Organization The Des Moines Rowing Club (DMRC), established in 1983, is a non-profit corporation to promote the sport of rowing in the central Iowa area. A ten-member Board of Directors governs the club, which is elected by the club membership at the January meeting. The newly elected board members then elect the officers. Officers include president, vice-president, secretary, and treasurer. Each board member also usually chairs one of the several working committees of the club: Regatta, Training, Equipment, Rowing Coordinator, Membership, and Communications. DMRC shares a boathouse with the Drake Crew, located on the Des Moines River near Birdland Marina. The club also has a boathouse on Gray’s Lake. The city’s Parks and Recreation Department own both boathouses. Head of the Des Moines Regatta ‘The Regatta’ is the main annual event for the club. Proceeds from this daylong event of about 60 three-mile races help us to buy new equipment and keep older equipment in working order. Organized and run by the Regatta Committee, the Head of the Des Moines is one of the best organized and best attended regattas in the Midwest. This is all due to the great volunteerism that is the underpinning of the club. The regatta takes place the last Saturday of September on the Des Moines River and is a monumental undertaking. Planning is a year-round project, so feel free to jump in at any time, because volunteering is the best way to meet other club members. The Regatta Committee is subdivided into several working groups: Score Keeping, Grounds, Food, Sponsors, TShirts/Posters, Volunteers, Officials, and Registration. In addition to offering these opportunities to help, the regatta has a standing tradition for all club members to donate healthful breakfast items the morning of the regatta. The Novice Program Our novice or learn-to-row program generally starts in June on Gray’s Lake and lasts until the regatta at the end of September. During the summer, novice crews will move to the river at some point. Novices are invited to participate in all club activities, including volunteering. We hope that they will return to become second-year rowers, coxes, scullers, and active members of our club.

Equipment Use and Care Our equipment is fragile, delicate, breakable, touchy, and expensive. But, if treated with care and respect, it will give miles and miles of dedicated and delightful service. The club does have equipment insurance, but we buy our own parts and make our own repairs to the extent we can. The guiding principle here is simple: BE CAREFUL!!! Sometimes accidents do happen—rarely, we hope. When they do, post a sign on the boat stating that it is not to be used.. Then report the damage to a club officer and to the Equipment Committee ASAP. This way, no one will take the broken boat out for a row and turn a minor repair into a major one or even worse—turn a regular row into a dangerous row. Our equipment committee will handle ordering the parts and making necessary repairs. They are also glad to teach you about boat repair if you are interested. Finally, a note about the logbooks: USE THEM! They are an insurance requirement and oddly enough a good safety tool. Sign your boat out before you take to the water. Sign it back in only when it is safely in the racks. Feel free to editorialize in the “comments” space. It can make for interesting reading.

Rules and Policies Arrive at the boathouse 10 to 15 minutes before your scheduled time to row. Scheduled times are dock times, meaning the boat is to be in the water and departing the dock at that time. This enables the next scheduled crew to start on time. If you are unable to row, it is your responsibility to find a substitute. Two no-shows without a sub might cause you to be dropped by the crew. No one appreciates showing up only to have the row canceled for lack of a full crew. You should be able to swim. If the boat does tip over, the oars and boat will function as floatation devices, so stay with the boat. However, this is not a substitute for swimming ability. Carry the boat using only the braces, handles and gunwales. Act only when and as commanded by the coxswain. The cox is in charge of the boat and no one else, other than a coach, should be giving commands. Step on the boat center platform under the seat when entering or exiting the boat. Never step into the bottom of the boat. It is very fragile—we call them ‘shells’ for a reason! Minimize talking in the boat and pay attention to what is being said—even if it is not directed at you. You may be able to learn something. Return to the dock on time. Make sure all equipment is properly put away. Let the coxswain know if you have any concerns or see any necessary repairs for equipment. He or she will note it in the logbook. If foul weather prevails and you have not been contacted, you should still show up at the boathouse at your regular time. If the conditions are not dangerous, the crew will decide what to do as a group. This may include a row in the rain, a group run on the bike path, going out to eat, or whatever.

The Basics of Rowing The first step in learning to row is to familiarize yourself with the parts of the boat, rowing terminology, and the commands used in rowing. Your cox will assign you a seat by name/number. From time to time, commands will be given to selected seats by name/number or by location within a group of seats—for example, “bow four” (the first four seats counting from the bow) or “stern pair” (the two seats counting from the stern). Also learn and memorize whether your seat is a port or starboard seat. Commands may also be given to a specific side of the boat. Setting Stretchers Setting the stretchers (the shoes or clogs that hold your feet) correctly can significantly increase a rower’s effectiveness. Resist the tendency to complacently settle on a setting that seems comfortable. Generally, the rule is that shins should be nearly vertical at the catch, when the legs are fully compressed. Make a mental note of your stretcher setting (so many notches from the end) so that you can easily set it or adjust it next time you row. Your setting may vary slightly from boat to boat. Signs of stretcher problems: Stretchers set too far to the stern may cause: - legs to be under-compressed at the catch - over-reaching with the upper body at the catch - cramped posture at the finish and trouble finishing Stretchers set too far to the bow may cause: - legs to not fully extend at the finish - over-compensation of the legs at the catch - stern stops hitting the calves excessively - failure to use the stern end of the slide - short catch - difficulty in acceleration in the early part of the drive, causing a mushy catch - long finish with difficulty in releasing, finishing too far from the body Hand Placement In sweep rowing, both hands are used on one oar. Hands are placed approximately six inches apart on the oar with one hand near the end of the oar. Finger and thumbs wrap lightly around the handle. During pull through both wrists are flat and the forearms are relaxed. The grip should also be relaxed. The hand farthest from the oarlock (the outside hand) is also called the hook hand as it acts as a hook transmitting the power from the legs to the oar during the pull through. During the feathering and squaring, the oar should pivot loosely in the outside hand. The hand nearest the oarlock (the inside hand) is the feathering hand and is responsible for rotating the oar into and out of the feathered position. It is not used to exert much pressure during the pull through. Feathering and squaring is achieved by the pressure applied by rotating the fingers, not the wrist, of the feathering hand. The wrist will bend, as the fingers roll the handle square or

feathered but the wrist does not supply the force to turn the handle. The area of the fingers from under the knuckles to the tips of the fingers squares and feathers the blade. All turning of the blade should be done with the inside hand.

1. Both hands and wrists correctly positioned on the oar handle during pull though. Wrists are flat and fingers of both hands are wrapped fully around the oar handle.

2. Thumb of feathering hand placed on top of oar handle with blade square.

3. When blade is feathered, the heel of the hand is away from the handle. The fingers remain in full contact with the handle at all times.

4. The wrist turns the oar. Note the difference of wrist position shown here and in picture 3.

5. Finger pressure control. The fingers have flattened the oar; the heel of the hand is away from the handle; the wrist and forearms are relaxed; the handle rests lightly in the fingers and top half of the thumb.

6. Fingers of outside hand slipping off the handle before, during or after the catch. Losing hold of the handle by the outside hand reduces control and power.

Parts of the Stroke Catch: the beginning of the stroke. Your arms are straight, your legs are bent, and your oar blade descends vertically into the water. You should be relaxed. Drive: the movement which moves the boat forward in the water. Keeping your arms and back straight, push against the stretchers and extend your legs. As your legs stretch out, rock back on your seat, then draw your hands towards you to finish the drive, bending your elbows. This smooth flow of power, from legs to back to arms, is the first key to rowing well. Start with light pressure applied with care before trying to row hard. Release: the finish of your stroke. At the end of your drive, a slight downward motion of the hands will “release” the still vertical oar blade from the water. This leads directly to the recovery. Recovery: the movement that brings you back to the catch. Feather your blade and extend your arms. Once your hands are past your knees, lean forward at the hip, begin squaring your blade, and then move down the slide by bending your knees until you are once again at the catch. This armsbody-legs rhythm is the opposite of the drive and takes about twice as long. This is your opportunity to rest between drives—let it last! Feel the boat glide through the water beneath you and enjoy this time. This is not something to be rushed through.

Body Positions During the Stroke The essential principle of our rowing style is that all body motions are related to the speed of the boat. After the blade is securely locked in the water, the body, suspended between the stretchers and the handle, moves toward the bow; the leg drive and this body suspension therefore propel the boat. While the knees are going down, all the other muscles are providing a firm connection to the oar handle. Toward the end of the leg drive, the upper body swings open and is finally followed by a draw of the arms at the finish. This way, all groups of muscles work in logical, sequential harmony, overlapping each other and creating a steady pressure on the blade throughout the drive. The Entry/Catch Position: Find a natural body position, reaching from the hips with a slightly curved upper body. Sit tall and relaxed. Your shins should be almost vertical. Keep outside shoulder high using a slight rotation toward the end of the oar handle. Both arms should be straight and overstretched. The blade enters the water at the maximum of your reach. There should be no body lift to put the blade in the water; only the hands should lift the handle to put the blade into the water. The First Half of the Drive: After the blade is buried in the water, the body weight is transmitted to the foot-stretchers using the force of the legs. The muscles of the back, shoulder, and arms hold firmly providing a good connection between the legs and the blade. There is no significant upper body lift (opening of the angle created between the thighs and chest). All motion should be very horizontal. The Second Half of the Drive: Continue of the horizontal drive, body weight handing on straight arms. It will appear as if the body swing takes over from the leg drive. The upper body is in a vertical or near-vertical position. Both arms are straight and stretched. Maximum tension is on the outside arm. The Finish and Release: Legs and back finish their work almost simultaneously. Your hands should continue the last inches of the draw with good support against the foot-stretchers. Keep the body in a tall position about 10 degrees past vertical. Hand and chest should be behind the oar handle. Semicircular motion of the release occurs in front of the body without touching it. Outside shoulder should be slightly higher than the inside one. Outside forearm is leveled, keeping a high elbow position. Inside elbow goes down through the plane of the body. The body is in a layback position waiting for the hands to get away before starting to move out of the bow. The body stays in the bow until the arms are fully extended. The First Half of the Recovery: Outstretched arms (not locked) are pulling the upper body forward to the proper body angle. Then the slide to the stern begins. Hands, upper body lean, and slide are all done as a fluid sequence of movements. Outside shoulder is slightly higher than the inside. Outside arm is totally outstretched as hands pass over the knees. The inside arm is slightly bent. The Second Half of the Recovery: The seat has covered half the distance between the finish and the catch. Arms are stretched forward. Body has completed the forward reach—total body angle is set. The outside should be at the maximum of its forward reach, slightly ahead of the inside. Keep both arms outstretched without locking the elbows.

Bladework During the rowing stoke cycle, the rower is moving on the slide backward and forward. During movement in the direction of the bow, the boat is propelled forward by the oars. The boat accelerates when the same mass moves in the opposite direction until the last part of the slide. It is impossible to reduce this negative force completely. There will always be some “checking” of the boat (slowing it down a little when the negative directional force exceeds position directional force). It is the degree of the checking that separates good crews from poor ones. A controlled slide, correct entry of the blade into the water, and immediate change of direction of body mass toward the bow will reduce the negative force. Bladework is a skill that has a direct impact on the movement and speed of the boat. Very often, bladework is a direct reflection of what is happening inside the boat (bodywork). Often it is possible to change either one and effect a change in the other at the same time. Grip and hand position on the oar handle are important factors to correct the execution of some elements of the bladework, especially the release, feathering, squaring, and entry of the blade into the water. Recovery: During the recovery, the blade travels forward toward the bow in a smooth, horizontal plane at a steady height. There should be enough clearance to allow easy squaring of the blade before the entry without skimming the surface of the water. Squaring: The squaring, or turning, of the oar so that the blade is perpendicular to the water’s surface should start with the hands above the ankles, and it should be executed at a constant speed, and gradually, during the last part of the recovery. It should neither slow down nor stop the motion of the blade (“hanging”) before the entry into the water. Entry: The entry into the water should be done quickly, as a continuation of the recovery. It should be well synchronized with the speed of the boat, without too much back splash or front splash. For beginners, however, some minimal back splash is suggested to made certain they don’t miss the water. At lower ratings use the weight of the blade, instead of power, to place the oar in the water. However, at 32+ strokes a minute, gravity is too slow and the rower must lift the handle slightly to place the blade in the water. “Scooping” the blade’s entry into the water, should be followed with immediate horizontal power application (leg drive) once the blade is covered. Drive: While executing the drive, the blade should remain buried in the water, moving horizontally and at an even depth of no more than three inches below the water’s surface. Release: The release from the water should follow the last push of boat which is followed by a quick, clean, fluid motion of the blade (while still squared) up and out of the water. The featherturning the oar so the blade is parallel to the water’s surface--occurs after the blade leaves the water. The whole path of the blade should be very horizontal during the drive, as well as during the recovery. It should be connected by semicircular ends (entry, release) where the blade changes it direction. The whole motion, squaring, entry, release, and feathering should be related to the speed of the boat and the stroke rate. Two of the most crucial points of this path, entry and release, create a lot of difficulty for both beginners and experienced rowers.

Common Rowing Errors At the Entry The most common mistake related to the entry is “hanging” or “skying” before the entry. The blade missed the water, then “chases and hits,” trying to get some grip on the water. This is usually caused by: * Squaring too late and missing the water—missing the best point to lock the blade in the water. * Dropping the hands and shoulders down directly before the catch—due to trying to reach out in the last part of the slide instead of at the beginning. * Incorrectly gripping the oar handle—squaring and pushing the oar handle down instead of forward directly before the catch. At the Release The most common mistakes at release are: * Feathering a blade that’s still under the water—mostly due to incorrect grip. Both wrists roll down, turning the blade almost flat before the end of the stroke. That, of course, makes release very difficult and unclean, and causes the boat to flop side to side. * Loss of pressure on the blade—loss of the “air pocket” behind the blade. The blade goes deeper and gets stuck in the water. All of these symptoms are the result of the same thing -- lack of acceleration during the second half of the stroke. Rowers doing this usually get hit in the stomach by the oar handle.

Parts of the Boat and Oar Blade: the broad flat part of the oar. Bow: the front end of the boat. Bow ball: the small protective ball on the very end of the bow. Braces: the handles carved into each platform under the seat to help lift and carry the boat. Button: a plastic collar fastened around the oar shaft to prevent the oar from sliding through the oarlock. Cockpit: the open part of the boat. Collar: same as the button. Decking: plastic or other material which stretches from gunwale to gunwale to protect the inside of the boat. Port: When seated facing the stern this is the right hand side of the boat Riggers: the metal extensions on each side of the boar that holds the oars. Rudder: the small moveable piece at or near the stern, which the coxswain uses for steering. Seat: the part of the boat you sit on, located on the slide. Skeg: a fixed immovable fin on the bottom of singles and some other un-coxed shells Slide tracks: the metal tracks on which the slide moves. Slide: the part of each seat which slides as you move. Starboard: When seated facing the stern this is the left hand side of the boat. Stern: the back of the boat.

Rowing Terminology Crab: or more likely, “catching a crab.” Not the pursuit of a crustacean, but rather getting the oar stuck in the water by having it go too deep -- this does not please your fellow crew members. Forward : towards the bow of the boat. Half Slide: when rowing, bend your knees only partially so that your seat moves about 1/2 way down the slide. Port: sitting in the boat facing forward, port is on your left. It does not change relative to your position or direction. Therefore, when sitting in the boat facing sternward (as a rower does) port is to your right. Port-rigged boat: the stroke seat has its rigger/oar on the port side. Quarter slide: when rowing, use your legs very little, so that you seat moves only about 1/4 way down the slide. Starboard: sitting in the boat facing forward, starboard is to the right. It does not change relative to your position or direction. Therefore when sitting in the boat facing sternward (as a rower does) starboard is on your left. Starboard rigged boat: the stroke sear has its rigger/oar on the starboard side. Sternward: towards the stern of the boat. Stroke: not something one has after a strenuous row, but rather the rowing seat position at the stern. This person sets the pace and rhythm for the rest of the crew. Also the actual activity of moving the war through the water.

Coxing Commands Generally there are three steps to each command. The coxswain will call all three steps as follows: 1.

Ready to (command): This basically informs you what the command will be. If you are unsure of the command or not ready to execute it, say so now.

2.

Ready all: This is one last chance to let the coxswain know you are either unsure or not ready. Speak up!

3.

Command: All crew members execute the command together.

The three steps establish a cadence or rhythm so that the crew can act in unison on the final command. There is often a “sing song” feel to the commands as they flow 1-2-3. Oddly enough, one exception to this command format is generally the very first command spoken when manually moving (not rowing) the boat. It is “Hands on.” It simply means to get your hands on the gunwales or other appropriate lifting site and be prepared for the next command. “Hold the boat, get oars” is another example of a one step command. While rowing, the command format may also be shortened by the cox stating “(command) this stoke” or “(command) in five strokes”, as in, “Half power, this stroke.” “Let it run, in five.” Then there’s the ever-popular scream of desperation, “Hold water!” Launching Commands The following is a sample of commands used to get the boat out of the boathouse and in the water. All eight, hands on. Ready to lift, ready all, lift. Bow, scurry under. Three scurry under, etc. Up to shoulders, ready all, up. Walk on out, ready all, walk. Watch the riggers. Weigh enough. Turn around. Walk down, ready all, walk. Weigh enough. Overhead, ready all, up. Ready to roll in, ready all, down. Ports hold the boat, starboards get the oars. Adjust your stretchers. Count down when ready. Ports, run your oars out. Ports, one foot in, and down. Hold the boat, coxswain getting in. Starboards, one foot in, ready to push, and push. Tie in and count down when ready.

Rowing Commands And in: comes shortly after “shove.” Sit down on your seat and do not worry about your feet. And down: same as “And in.” Arms only: keep your legs extended, knees slightly bent, and row with only your arms. Arms and back: keep your legs extended, knees slightly bent, and row with only your arms and back. Count down when ready: used by the cox to ascertain when the crew is ready. When ready each seat will shout out their number in sequence beginning from the bow. (Bow and stroke will often shout out their seat names rather than their numbers.) Half slide: use only 1/2 of the slide. Hands on: put your hands on gunwale/handle(s) and be ready to lift. Hold the boat, get oars: commands generally broken down by sides, e.g., ports hold the boat, starboards get the oars. Hold water: turn your blade vertically and dig it into the water to stop the boat. Apply the brakes. Lean river: when approaching the dock, lean your body slightly away from the dock to make sure riggers clear it. Let it run: stop rowing and let the boat glide. Lift: pick the boat up. One foot in (pause) and in: place one foot on the platform of your seat and keep other foot on the dock. One foot up (pause) and out: place one foot on the platform and one on the dock. Wait for cox to say “and out” then step out of the boat. Overhead: generally from shoulders position, place one hand on each gunwale, then press the boat overhead by straightening elbows. Quarter slide: use only 1/4 of your slide. Reach across: used when moving the boat into and out of the rack. While the boat is at waist level, keep one hand on the gunwale near you and reach over the bottom of the boat with the other hand grasping the opposite gunwale.

Roll it in: used to move the boat from overhead into the water. The goal is to keep the boat parallel to the water at all time by bending at the knees, not the waist. The ultimate goal is to have the boat placed gently in the water so that the full length of the hull contacts the water at the same time. It can be done! Roll it up: begin bringing your blade to it vertical position. Roll to waist: some coxes prefer this intermediate step from overhead to the water. Generally it helps keep the boat parallel to the water if anyone can’t control their downward movement. Row: begin rowing. Scurry: while the entire crew is on one side of the boat and reaching across, alternate crew members duck under the boat and resume a reach across position on the other side. This maneuver is done one rower at a time. Set it up: same as “Set up the boat.” Set up the boat: raise or lower you hands as needed to keep the boat level in the water. Boats need to be set up at all times -- especially when rowing. Shove: push the boat away from the dock with your dock foot. Square it up: bring your blade to it vertical position. Tie in: place your feet in stretchers and tie them in. Generally done after the boat has moved away from the dock. Toe the edge: put your toe close to the edge of the dock, generally in preparation for lowering the boat into the water. Up to shoulder: lift the boat up to shoulder level. This is made much more effective if rowers are lined up in order of height, generally tallest in the stern. Up to waist: lift the boat up to and equal height somewhere around someone’s waist. Weigh enough: stop whatever you are doing, now!