t o p am

GE RE PA C E NT Y M A P C IT

K

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016 Usually

FREE $1 Where Sold

Survival Guide

The Gods practised first on Heaven, then they made Kampot. Come and see why it's so special. Officially an unofficial guide to Kampot and its attractions, places to go and things to do. Early morning by Kate the Editor

In this Issue...

P 1­10 Things to See and Do. P 10­13 Food n Drink, Health. P 14­15 Sports n Gaming. P 17­18 Shopping, Animals. P 19­23 Do's, Dont's and Local Info. P 23­30 Transport. P 31­35 Daily Events, Local Characters. P 35­38 Street Food Guide. P 39­40 Distoric Memories of a Pirate Past. P 41­43 Learn Some Useful Khmer. P 44­45 Daelim Diaries. P 46 Useful Phone No's. P 47 Projects & Volunteering. P 48­50 Bars, Food & Rooms, Contact us. Maps on Pages 2, 16, 20, 26­27, 32, 39, 42, 51.

Things to see and do... Bokor Mountain (The Hill). A National Park, construction site and area of historic interest. Tours can be sorted through the many tour operators or your guest house, although now you can again go up alone by hiring a moto (check the map on page 42). Atop the hill are the ruins of both the French built resort and the Khmer re­vamp of the site in the 60's. The story starts in 1917 when the French founders started the construction of the road, it took six years to complete and claimed over a thousand lives. The “Bokor Palace Hotel” opened in 1925 and catered for the wealthy, although it

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

was never used as a casino. In 1940 it closed and stayed so until 1959 when Sihanouk (twice king, former prime minister and world record holder) made the decision to make the site a world class resort. In 1962 the hill re­opened with the added attraction of Cambodia's first casino in what is sometimes now called the “new hotel”. The complex continued to operate till 1972 when it once again closed. Sokha Hotels are currently building three new hotels and casinos on the hill, one is already open! They also plan to open a huge housing estate with a prospective population of over 100.000. So lets hope it's third time lucky cos till now the hill has never made buck one!

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

1

Things to see and do... River, Boats & Trips. The river is really an estuary, thus its level only varies with the tide and in heavy rain, it is therefore salty and supports sea life for the greater part of the year, fish and crab following their preferred saline levels through the seasons, Tek Chhou is the breaking point and beyond there it's all fresh water. It is very possible to hire a boat and crew for the day, ask at your guesthouse or at one of the bars, most will be able to help. Popular trips are up the river and its lost turns stopping at a couple of riverside establishments to refresh, down the river to the sea is good too with a nice view of the Cambodian navy and fishing fleets, and of course the sunset or fire­ flies cruises, though to see fire­flies you are much better off visiting the pond after it gets dark. For the early bird dolphin watching trips are also possible, check out Prek Thnout Community in the Projects and Volunteering section p47. Bart the Boatman tours are small, bespoke and cover areas other boats cannot go, mainly up­stream and the rivers lost loops. 092174280 The River Runner caters for small to medium sized groups with their own plans and can be booked at Natural Bungalows or on 012539267

Rapids (Tek Chhou). A series of stones in flowing water, a major tourist resort for the Khmer and fun for all. Cool crystal clear water running down from the semi de­mined hills of Bokor. Unfortunately as there are now dams upstream the quantity of flowing water may be disappointing, but it's still worth a look. Also one of the many Generals here has recently built a spa on the back of this water, he claims it has health improving qualities and has called it "Tada Bokor," so we have spring water available as well as just bottled now! The Front. The east bank is commonly just termed the “front” and it's a great place to be

2

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

for sunset and dar­ling, strolling, rolling and conversing around sunset. Most of the foreigner orientated business' are concentrated along this strip or near to it, it also caters for several pontoon and tour boats that also operate as bars with some also offering food, so it's a great starting place for the evening. Beach. There are a few beaches within spitting distance of Kampot, those at Kep (actually Kep has its beach delivered, the sand comes from Kampot river bed) and the so called secret (Angkaul) beach, ones to the south of Kampot and those about 17Km toward Snook along highway 3. There are even tide dependent

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Things to see and do... beaches all along the river, with the Green House having their own, actually there are many little beaches that defy the tide. Some of the seaside beaches still bear the scars of seaweed farming with masses of wooden poles piercing the shallow sea, between them are typical Khmer houses built on stilts, 500m or more out to sea. Fish Isle & Nut Hill. Go over the new bridge towards Snook and turn second left, soon you will cross a bridge, you are now on fish isle, keep to the main roads and eventually you will get to the new trails and then the coast. It's a stunning place to explore with amazing 270° views that are far too good to miss! Museum. Cracking news, we have a working museum, Wa Hey! The old govenors mansion had its inauguration as Kampot Museum on the 28th Jan 2015, deep joy! But don't go thinking its world class yet, these are very early days. The museum at present shows a brief outline of the Pot's history with some wonderful old pictures to give you some idea of how Kampot was formed and grew, all articles are in Khmer, French and English, don't forget your glasses if you want to read the English. Best of all is the proposed plans for the future, and they be BIG plans. Opening hours, Tue ­ Thurs 3­6pm, Sat & Sun 8­11am & 3­6pm. Climbing and Caving. This is your chance to explore areas very few have seen before, from stunning cliffside countryside views to the rain sculptured caves of the living rock within. Call Climbodia and take socks. To get there head towards Kep and turn left after the big concrete bridge, then left again at the crossroads, go over the railway lines very carefully and the hill is right in front of you, well easy. Caves. There are many caves around Kampot, many have Buddhist shrines with specific powers, so you may well see people camped

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

there seeking help for their ailments. Possibly the most popular caves are at Phnom Chhnok, and what most people miss is that the approaches to the cave are dotted with ponds, round American type ponds, dropped in from above by B52’s back in 1973. Though by far the best caves are at Kampong Trach, it may cost you a little more to get there but its worth it, about 40km toward the Vietnamese border. Trekking. Use guides and stick to the paths, take the given advice, if you plan to do the hill contact the Rangers or a tour that uses them, it’s dangerous up there so take sensible things

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

3

Things to see and do...

with you, ipods rarely save lives. Magic (White) Mountain (Phnom Sor). With a little help you may be able to find this one, it’s more of a hill than a mountain but its still a sod climbing it, scattered around the hill are shrines and at the top you may well meet the witch and her two followers, don’t piss them off as the spells they cast are good. To find it just head north and look for the hump. Ya Mao Statue on Bokor Hill. No it’s not a Buddha with jugs, Ya Mao is the guardian of the coast. She has become a sort of souped up St Ya Mao Christopher who overlooks the safety of travellers that present her with offerings, you will no doubt already have seen this though not understood. See the legend of Ya Mao says she died at sea whilst travelling to see her husband, thus the Khmer assume she was wanting sausage and still to this day they offer her phallus’s and bananas. Small shrines to Ya Mao pop up all over the coastal region of the bodge, so if your bus stops to throw some money or bananas at a shrine, it will be to her the offering is made. Feel free to join in! Waterfalls. The falls are seasonal here, there is little point in visiting during the dry season and they can be hard to get to in the wet. Most moto drivers and all guides will know how to get you to the most popular ones, at worst it should only take you two hours to walk to them, though much longer if you are stupid and decide to wear flip flops. It’s said that one set

4

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

of falls has been seen by less than 10 westerners since its discovery in the early 1900’s, yeah a proper “secret waterfall”, not at all like the one some folks advertise, so don’t bother asking where the real secret one is. Dams and Lakes. A series of small dams have recently been repaired just East of Kampot, they were originally built as a Khmer Rouge project and never termed a “secret lake” as printed elsewhere. The dams lasted till the late 90’s when one failed, flooding a vast area. Now the lake is rapidly becoming touristed with a small selection of bars n cafe’s skirting the

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

e p m e t c t t a d s c a o t y T j s T m o r t p P s

Things to see and do... edges of the reservoir and the durian plantations. Rubber rings and peddilo boats may be hired though the scenery should be enough to keep you happy. To get there head towards Kep and turn left after the big concrete bridge, then go straight on till you see the water, easy. Up the river from the rapids the Chinese have constructed a huge dam, we all hate it too as it's flooded us all at least twice during construction, but the finished project should produce 180MW with just the small cost of 2K hectares of national park. Exploring around the dam can be fun too, esp if you get on the east bank and get as far as the reservoir, there you will see the new loggers port, for your own sake do NOT take photo's. Trapangsangke Fishery Project is located just out of town and off the Kep road, it's well sign posted and only about 4km from Kampot. Their project is to restore local protected mangrove forrests previously destroyed by salt or shrimp production. They have a small restaurant and rooms to let with organised boat trips with the local fishermen, tis well worth popping in for a look. 017306505 Pagodas. Look for the tell tale fancy gates and soon you will see the Pagodas, the monks are

Stolen from Charlie Christensen

always happy to see you and practise their English, do wear suitable clothing when visiting, don't show too much flesh that is. The Pagoda on Fish Isle is well worth a look with its vivid depiction of Buddha hell. The National Zoo! Along the Tek Chhou road, just before the rapids you'll find the Zoo. It's sadly in a state of flux after being run by a western NGO for several months, with westerners volunteering their sweat to improve the animals lives. Now with the original Khmer owner again taking over its future is

Legend of Kampot terms

Pot = Kampot. Pot­pat® = x­pat living in the Pot. Prat­pat = Young do­gooder X­pats who claim to be making a difference. Snook = Sihanoukville/ Kompong Som (where Pot­pats go to die). Bodge = Cambodia/Cambodge. GH = Guesthouse. PP = Phnom Penh. Fish Isle = Koh D'tray. Nut Hill = Phnom Dung. Nuts = Coconuts. Snail = Backpacker. Boom boom = body cavity or sausage massage. Taxi girl/boy = body cavity or sausage masseur. Repeat offender = tourist or x­pat that keeps returning to the Pot. JF = KSG's first ace reporter, Jack the Father. Glue = tobacco substitute. KSG = Kampot Survival Guide. X­Pot = X Pot­pat. The Hill = Bokor Mountain. Pirate = someone on a boat trip. KFC = Kampot Football Club. Moto = Motorbike/Scooter. Moto Dop = motorcycle taxi.

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

5

Things to see and do...

young prince on the way up, he eventually became Buddha. Take a camera as the views are stunning. Pepper. Bloody good pepper is grown in these parts, probably the best in the world! Basic tours are available everywhere but for the full story contact "Sok Lim Tours" as they are running specialised tours. So go out to a plantation and see how it's grown and don't forget to buy some before you leave here. Durian (the king of fruits). This is what the area is famous for, the worlds best durian fruit. A spiky smelly fruit, eat with your mouth not your nose! There are many plantations along the Tek Chhou road to the rapids, go see some. Linguini al Mascarpone with Salt. This is a major Kampot export, its HQ is Kampot Black Pepper just out of town on the Kep road, so if you are passing drop in as they have a new exhibition Typical old Italian reciepe from Lombardie, centre that explains the process of salt in Northern Italy. production. South of the city are many salt flats Serves 4 people ­ Preparation time 15min. skirting the coasts and the salty rivers, some of Ingredients: the easiest to see are on fish isle, second left 440g of Linguini (Barilla, Di Cecco…) over the new bridge and straight on, or just 200g of Fresh Mascarpone head south along the east bank of the river. 30cl of Fresh Cream There is a theory rice production is about to be 50 rounds of black Kampot Pepper started in these very areas, so the worlds first 10 dry Walnuts ready salted rice will be Khmer! Salt Bird House. Thanks to the Chinese influence Method in Kampot we have many bird houses that In a large pot, heat water for the linguini with 2 produce a truly Chinese delicacy, birds nest pinches of salt. Crush the walnuts and reserve on the side. soup. Some of these houses are make shift and When the water is boiling, add the pasta and cook others are specially built for the job. They are it. Stir often to prevent sticking. easy to spot, just look for a big house with no Strain the pasta when it is cooked and throw it in a windows. They simulate cave conditions inside big bowl with the mascarpone, the fresh cream, the and tempt the birds in by playing looped bird black Kampot pepper and the walnuts. calls, playing loudest at sunrise and sunset. Note. Even if the original recipe is made with black Bridges. We have 3 of them, all can be walked pepper, feel free to replace it with red Kampot (the old bridge with some difficulty) but by far pepper (sweeter and more spicy). the most fun is the railway bridge, take a walk Recipe supplied by Steven Paoli. over it and check out the battle damage. The Owner of Green House restaurant. new bridge is now a fashionable meeting place

unsure. What is for sure is they still need visitors to feed the animals, so get up there and check it out, the animals need your money, and food! Secret Pagoda. It's not really a secret and hardly a pagoda, but it's one of the seven secret places the Pot used to boast (the not so secret lake was never one of them!). There are two ways of getting there, walking or riding, I know which method I would choose cos it's up a steep hill. To get there head up towards the rapids, if you plan to walk the turning you want is a left before the zoo, riding you go for the left turn after the zoo, there is a statue of a

6

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Things to see and do... for kids, especially now it has new road Plan of the New Port markings, painted on just over a year after its opening. The old bridge has been closed at last with rumours flying around concerning its future, but as yet nothing is known. So enjoy it while you can as it may be repaired or replaced shortly. Kampot Airport, KMT. Along the Tek Chhou road and opposite the school is the old air strip. It was last used for air transport in the 90's so it's a bit over grown now but you can clearly work out the runway between the mass of new tracks made for local access. Note: The airport is no longer used for Daelim drag racing as the new port offers far better facilities. Railway Station. Futuristic design in a corrugated rust peppered steel shell with exotic mosaic floor tiling, a pure relic of the 60's. For a taste of how good this station is check out the one 16Km towards Snook, it's just off the main road and somewhat lacking in the walls and roof departments, but it still makes a cracking picture. Anyway, a company called Toll Holdings won the concession to revamp these lines over seven years ago, they promised we would have a working train system within two years that would speed us to pp in about three hours. Well passenger trains resumed in April 2016 and may well continue, if only on a reduced schedule, c'mon, it's a start! New Port & Daelim Drag Racing Track. A deep water port is under construction not far past the entrance to Bokor, no prizes for guessing what traffic they are looking for, yep cruise ships to fill the new rooms and casinos on the hill, although they do have a free trade zone planned too. It could be an interesting trip if you have never seen a port being built. It's huge too reclaiming land up to 3km from the old coast line. Twice a year Kampot Drag Racing Team meets at the port and hosts a drag

8

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

3km

(check the map on p2) racing tournament, over 60 folk turned to the last one making it a great day indeed. The next meet is scheduled for late this year, so look out for flyers! Pot Holes. The pot hole was invented in Kampot and is still it's greatest export. Initially devised for traffic control it's popularity recently soared with Cambodia's adoption of "free range golf". A game where you hit a golf ball in any direction with the intent to end its travel in a pot hole. Architecture. The Pot is overflowing with French colonial architecture, NOT. In fact we have very few French buildings with the best of them being slowly restored. The majority of houses built here were constructed after the French era and built in the style of chinese shop houses, most will have chinese characters on them with dates post 1953. See Cambodia was just in French protectorate, never a colony! Old Prison. After nearly a hundred years of service the old prison opened its doors and let all the poor sods within, out, so they could catch a bus to their new prison some 17km from town, and hopefully to much better accommodation. A couple of the main feature buildings remain with the bulk of the plot

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

l t P w s i a a f P t b e w i A d ( s c u K f B l h K

Things to see and do... levelled for development. A large billboard on the site pictures its future, scary. Pond. After many years of neglect the pond was finally renovated in late 2015. It now sports a wide perimeter path ideal for those interested in circuit training, it has a new shrine and new statues, at night it's well illuminated and even has a fountain, its a nice and fashionable area for the young and elite of the Pot to meet and converse. In the distant past the 'pond' was bereft of water as it was actually built as a race track, the banking around its edge gives this away, but alas its racing days were limited due to subsidence and water ingress. American Ponds. Between 1965 ­73 the USA dropped nearly three million tons of ordanance (bombs) on Cambodia. During 230,000+ sorties on 115,000+ targets all over Cambodia, check out the map! The evidence is all around us still, if you know what to look for. A tip, the Khmer build square ponds and their paddy fields were not designed with bushes in them. Betting. Once upon a time the government licensed betting offices, this avenue of pleasure has now been taken away from the average Khmer, religion may well be the only gamble

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

American Pond Sites

all 115,273 bombing targets 1965 ­ 73

You are here

the Khmer have left. But down at the border crossing things are different, in no­mans land they have built several casino's, pop in on the way to Ha­tien. Also there's new hotel and casino just opened on the hill, it's not in a very picturesque spot, but casino's don't need views. Cinema. In times gone by Kampot hosted four cinemas, two of which you can still see and have re­opened sporadically showing Khmer offerings, with two more new cinema's opening, one catering for Khmer which is closed at present and one for westerners, Ecran, Situated just off the front and is offering scheduled screenings and a private AC viewing rooms. Comedy Club. Normally hosted at Ecran the newly formed "Kampot Comedy Club" is a very welcome addition to the Pot's entertainment. The shows normally consist of three comics (1 or 2 international and 1 or 2 expats) that tour the bodge for a few days performing in PP, Snook, Siam Reap and here. KSG operatives no longer attend these events as the last thing we want when we go out is for some twat to read this guide to us. Nightlife. The Pot has a full compliment of nightlife available, with late night bars, food and now even a night club. Live Music. Several warring factions of musicians have graced Kampot bars this year, almost all of them so expect to hear live music drifting along the river and side streets. Sadly no real battle of the bands has occurred yet, even though we have been told Pot musicians are in the middle of a price war. Aside from that "The Kampot Playboys" are no doubt the best band ever to come out of the Pot, a mix of Khmer and western players that really rock, do not miss a chance to see them!

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

9

Things to see and do / Food and Drink... Get Folked. A couple of locals regularly team up with passing musicians to jam together in a folky way. There is no set venue for these boys so catching them could be difficult, but it's always worth it. So if you are lucky enough to hear of them playing somewhere, don't miss your chance of seeing these guys either. Karaoke & KTV. There are many opportunities to sing your heart out in Kampot, most such establishments dot the outskirts of the city but a few have sneaked within the city limits, to find them hire a Tuk Tuk or follow the noise, but be aware these places are there to make money, this is done via hostesses or inflated prices. Boom Boom (Sausage Services). There are many venues for internal body massage within this fair city, currently over 40 and normally aimed at a quick fire one stop service. Don't ever think it's like Thailand, Snook or PP, it's Khmer style business, Mc Donald's of the east. Just look for red lights at night or visit one of the many late night Karaoke bars. Oh, and there is no truth in the rumour that you win a badge for doing them all in a night. Whatever you do, always use a wilkinson (love sock)! Gay. Kampot now has a thriving gay scene, but sadly there are no set bars or clubs to accommodate the masses, even though the Dragon Club does its best. So you will have to look around, thankfully all bars are gay friendly. Kep. Well, Kep had it's heyday during the 1950's and 60's with many upmarket Khmer gracing it's beach and modern facilities, they built their villas there too and made it a fashionable place to be, it was flash! Cambodia's second casino was built in Kep at the time they built the one on Bokor (1962), you can still see it too as till recently it was used as the market. Kep is now resurgent with tons of businesses opening mainly aimed at the well heeled traveller but cheaper options are available, if you hunt them down. It makes an excellent day trip, promise.

Food and Drink... Food. All the food is good here, the ice is good too, so don't worry about it. Most businesses serve food till about 21.30, if you miss that window of opportunity not all is lost but your choice drops dramatically. So think about food early or check out the street food guide later in this rag.

10 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

V " f c v y b h V B w A f

Food and Drink... and spirits that are Khmer owned, but it's no longer easy as foreign interest in Cambodia is increasing exponentially. Kampot Cartel. It's sad to say but tis true, some business owners in the Pot have formed a price fixing cartel to control the price of essential fluids, yeah beer, wine n spirits, yeah, the bastards! Good news is that most of the old school Pot­pats declined entry to this ungodly enterprise and continue to serve cheap pop, bless em. Happy Hours. Many bars and guesthouses sport happy hours, too many to mention here so check the adverts and black boards, if you read carefully you could be onto a winner! Palm Wine. A natural and traditional local drink, best taken close to where its made, any moto or tuk tuk driver will be happy take you out to try some, but be careful it's surprisingly strong and smells like sour milk. Rice Wine. This fella can really batter you, it's bloody cheap and well strong, many Khmer café’s will have large jars full of the stuff, usually with strange additives in them, like odd Vegetarians. Our new veggie correspondent vegetables and dead reptiles, caution is "The Salad Tosser" has set up a faceache page recommended. for those in search of a meat free diet. Though I Shirts. Due to the fact that Kampot is not a can't see why as everywhere seems to have beach town like Snook, local business owners veggie options on their menus. So get out there may well refuse you service if you are shirtless, yourself and look around a bit cos it's worth it, so show some respect, dress up, cos you're not but if your'e a typer check out his page here... in Snook or Kep now. https://www.facebook.com/groups/ Feeding Times. Food can take a long time Veggieinkampot coming here in the Pot, most kitchens are small Beers. Draught beer has hit Kampot, currently and can only handle a couple of dishes at once, we have three different flavours, Cambodia, only rarely do all dishes ordered come out at Anchor and Angkor, all are now owned by the same time, so expect to wait a while, and as foreign investors. It is possible to find beers

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

11

Food and Drink / Health... Khmer dishes you must try

1. Char Kadow, a highly spiced meat dish that takes some beating, nation wide variants make it impossible to explain fully but it's very tasty, whatever meat they use. 2. Amok, a lemon grassed curry usually of fish but in latter years has been offered with chicken beef or whatever else is handy, and it's always a winner. 3. Korko, pumpkin soup type curry laced with fish or meat and stewed veg, a cracking meal for a cold day or when your a bit off colour, satisfaction guaranteed.

Health...

Doctoring. There's a Pharmacy on the main traffic circle, its a well stocked first call, from there its possibly best to check Bokor clinic near the level crossing on the PP road or the Sonja Kill Memorial Hospital, from there PP and then Bangkok, best of all just don't get ill. Even if you are not ill you could always just have a medical treat, you could have an x­ray or body scan for $10 or so, so go on, spoil yourself, it's better than a postcard. Talking Meds. Avoid Chinese fake drugs by Khmer sauces to try 1. Kampot pepper sauce, simply a mix of ground buying genuine Cambodian pharmaceuticals, just ask a pharmacist for the drug you want pepper and salt in lime juice, sometimes with a followed by the word Kampuchea, the product little sugar. It brings meals alive and makes your will be exactly the same as what you asked for, tongue tingle, lovely. 2. Prahok, fermented fish paste, or cheese as most much cheaper and positively not fake. Khmer have it. Used in many Khmer dishes as a Tiger Balm. The all round Asian miracle cure flavourant or as a diping sauce, both are good as for, well everything! Available almost long as you don't know how it is made. everywhere but rapidly becoming a behind the 3. Kapi, similar to prahok kapi is made from counter top shelf product, mainly due to its fermented shrimp or prawns, it's a sort of highly impressive medicinesque reputation. Don't flavoursome paste and can stink to high heavens deny yourself, buy some as it takes the itch out but tastes amazing, try some. of mossie bites within minutes, amazing! Injury Time. Between the old and new they say, great things come to those that wait. bridges you will see the hospital, it's been MSG. Man­made Salty Gravy, not seen in under heavy construction and is filling us all most restaurants due the the availability of fresh produce, however it's totally necessary on with hope as many foreign nationals have been stocking it up with new high tech equipment. instant noodles. Remember it is a referral hospital so it may Sugar. The Khmer have a great love of sugar well be closed when you have your accident. and tend to sneak it into most dishes, and by smothering their food with sauces on top. Note: Near the Diamond Hotel is a flash clinic that has been useful for filling the out of hours gap. sweet chilli sauce is 20% sugar! Best of all is the new Sonja Kill Memorial Groups. Most of the Pots bars n restaurants are used to catering for small groups only, be aware that if you descend upon a place in numbers they may well won't cope, so be prepared to wait a while. Betel Nuts. Coming from a sort of skinny coconut tree these red nuts can send you nuts, oh and your teeth red. They are now understood to be the cause of mouth cancers, esp when using the undried fresh verities, so keep them off your to­do list! Street Food. Check our guide on page 35.

12 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Health... Hospital near to the Bokor Hill entrance, it currently has out and in patient service from highly qualified western and Khmer Doctors. www.skmh.org Dentistry. We have a few very capable dentists and have marked two on the map. If you want to pay more PP is an option but you really don't need to leave the country because of toothache. Oh, and it's very cheap here! Travel/Evac Insurance. Best you have some, if you don't, get some now! Divers Alert Network (DAN) offers evac insurance with a basic membership, its cheap and available online, it will also get you home if needed. Costs for going without are scary as a friend of ours was quoted $25k by SOS to get him to the UK with a broken leg. Massage. You are spoilt for choice here but my X­wife and girlfriends particular favourite is Srey Chann 017621958, she has moved lately to new premises on the river front near the new bridge. Seeing Hands Vb is next to Baraca and is good too. Manicure. A late night emergency service is now available at Bokor clinic. Malaria/Mosquitos. There are no major malaria problems in Kampot, there are however many mosquitoes so get some deet on. If you intend on doing the hill put lots of deet on as there you can actually get malaria, oh and don't trust the local medicines as many are Chinese fakes, as they are too in many of the local clinics, so beware! Dehydration. This is what we all have to watch out for, it's all too easy not to drink enough, eventually you stop sweating and overheat, cooking yourself. So keep the fluids flowing. Sun. A bristled head is not adequate UV protection, so always wear a hat. Local sunblocks also have added ingredients you may wish to avoid, i.e. bleaching agents to whiten your skin, so watch out.

Before we find you.

www.facebook.com/KampotSurvivalGuide

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

13

Sports and Gaming... up to each other late on the front, this is all part of the build up for Kampot's Inter Bar Boxing Championship to be held next season, Snook has a similar project for sumo and Kep is going the mud wrestling route. Paintball. Travelling can be a highly stressful experience, especially when you are with friends, small problems escalate and become vendettas. Well here is your chance to level that score, shoot the bastard before they ruin your holiday! Available at Potshots. Quiz Nights. On Fridays the Magic Sponge has started running a pub quiz. they are quite well followed and sometimes even fun, even though they regularly runs off the rails. Could be a laugh if you're patient and not used to passing exams. Football. You can often catch a game at the Olympic stadium near the main traffic circle, there has even been a couple of tournaments there too. We also have a new all weather Astroturf pitch near the new bridge that has hosted a mini World cup. So check them out as it could be good fun, playing or watching. Some Pot­pats have also started playing 5 a side footie, they meet on Tuesday at the River Sport Club (between the old and new bridge)

Sports and Gaming. Water Sports. The world is your lobster here with an ever expanding choice of ways to play in the river. At present we have canoes, speed boats, jet ski's, wind surfing, water skiing, kite surfing and more, ask and ye shall find. Aquatic (Boxing) Centre. The National Olympic Committee of Cambodia has recently opened the country's first Aquatic Centre here in the Pot, it's intended to give training for rowers competing in the Olympic, SEA and Asian Games but will eventually be used for recreation and tourism (and currently looks like it's being converted into a bar and restaurant). So why has it only housed dragon boats for the last three years? Anyway, it has found a use as a boxing arena. Before going to see a bout check their foriegn policy, it seems if you are deemed foriegn you pay four times the usual price. Basketball. Well then, apparently folks meet daily at the Chinese school near the new bridge. So if bouncing balls is your thing, get down there by 5pm for a game. Boxing. Official boxing events do happen here but not often (see above), though it's far more likely you will see bar owners squaring

14 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

7 V w m P b P t a B f a t G w f s F l a p F g g c G a b a 1 A c p S i

Sports and Gaming... 7 pm ­ 8 pm Volley ball. Sporadic games are played at the waste ground near the old bridge, find a good moto to lean on or sit on the wall. Pétanque/Boules. A game played with metal balls and becoming increasingly popular in the Pot, you will see many locals lobing balls in their spare time. There are plenty of pitches around where you may be able to get a game. Badminton. Epic Arts performance centre has facilities for playing, equipment may be hired and booking in advance seems like a good idea to avoid disappointment. Gym. Yes we have a gym, at last. It's on the west bank next to the Moon KTV and caters for boxing types and ping pongers. Not a bad spot to get sweaty. Free Gym. Down by the aquatic centre the local authorities have built a little gym type area equipped with excercise things that all can play with, get in quick before it's all broken. Fishing. It's possible but don't expect to be as good as the locals are. Ultimately fishing only gives you practise at waiting, that's why it's not called catching. Golf. No we do not have a course yet but three are on the way. Near fish isle a new island is being created, it will have an 18 hole course and a marina too. We are also told another two 18 hole courses are planned for the hill project. At present the closest golf may well be the crazy golf course at the "Magic Sponge". For a proper course you'll have to go to PP. Swimming. Swimming within the city limits is strictly prohibited with the exception of the New Island, Marina river, which has been designated and Golf Project the official swimming pool, several bars have offered free beer to the first to swim a length. But do bear in mind that even if you love the river, it does not love you. It's dangerous swimming in some places with hidden underwater obstructions, also think about the (check the map on p2) nature of the river and its tidal cycles

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

before jumping in, the tide means that shite dropped in the river during the dry season hangs around, so it may be better to head further up the river, or to the rapids or the beach, where the shite is far more diluted. Swimming Pools. We have a rash of pools now, 2 Moons, Kampot GH, Billabong, Borey Bokor, Villa Vidici and Nataya all have pools, with almost everywhere in Kep having pools, but access may be limited or expensive. Backgammon. Yes we have a club! Meeting every Thursday and whenever interested players pass through the Pot, meetings are usually held at The Pond and are informal and fun even for non players. Actually Kampot Backgammon Club recently hosted Cambodia's largest ever backgammon tournament, sadly though the home team was depleted and just "kepped" losing! Pool. There are but a few tables in the city and most of them are obstructed. A couple of Khmer places have rough tables, the Magic Sponge (2 tables, one brand new), Kenny's, Nola, River Lodge, Madi's and Rusty 2 also have tables of differing qualities, but none of them look that good as they all need new cloth.

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

15

S t s s t M a a a s n t f b O e w i t w b w a i

16 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Shopping... Shopping... Shopping. Almost everything is available in the mass of shops between new and old bridge streets, the market etc. There are also supermarkets, OK, well two and they are on the main and the salt workers traffic circles. Market. What can I say, markets are markets and are the same the world over, crowded hot and cramped, but you can buy cheap food and all sorts of interesting goods there. Soon it seems the market will be re­vamped, with a new roof and proper flooring, or did I dream that bit? No I remember, its cost me $500 so far for our small stall and will need another $400 before completion, oh how I hate progress! Old (new) Market. Piercing the front is the end of the old market, it has just re­opened with various new stalls bars and cafe's opening in rapid succession. It's the second market in this location, the first being a wooden affair with its current concrete replacement being built in the 30's. It was re­vamped in the 60's with new fascades but never done very well as a market, so its great to see new life breathing in the old building. Night Market. On the Durian traffic circle a night market has been constructed, it has rides for kids and stalls of all sorts. It will no doubt be busy in the early evenings so go and check out the mayhem. Fish Market. If you are an early bird, or even out really late this could be fun. Around sunrise the fishing boats return from their nights work to sell their loads to the new stalls on the southern river front, all sorts of weird and wonderful can be seen there and some great photo opportunities await, if you are up. Mini­Marts. So many have sprung up around town lately it has become difficult to keep up, but rest assured, they be out there, so go look. Newsagent. Near the main traffic circle is a newsagent, its well stocked in Kampot terms and can be handy if you really want a copy of the previous days news, yes they keep them for odd sods like me. Book Shop. We have a newsagent near the main traffic circle and a couple of specialist book shops such as Keplers that are capable of ordering in titles. Some guest houses such as Bandini's also sell books.

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

17

Animals...

Animals...

Elephants. No we do not have our own elephant but we do have one visit from time to Ants. All ants are bastards, ask any local or time, it comes from Chook and pops down with Pot­Pat. Avoid encouraging them by not a magic medicine man selling charms to the bringing food into your room, protect your masses, it usually stops at the market but has drink with the condensation formed on your glass, produce a small puddle and the ants will been sighted on the Tek Chhou road heading for the rapids, probably on the way for a swim. leave your pop alone. Try not to stand in the same place too long, ants attack feet regularly, An old Khmer saying states that "when watch out for tree ants too, they're big red and elephants fight, ants get killed". Think about this saying as it explains a lot about the world. usually attack from above. Local kids have found offensive uses for these savage creatures, Dangerous Animals. Reports of crocodile and shark attacks in the river are unproven, tiger it has been known for people to be hit by ant and bear on the hill also have a disappointingly bombs, whole nests of pissed off tree ants are low body count, the last elephant reported thrown at their intended target, devastating. apparently packed its trunk and headed off to join the circus, snakes and spiders are rarely seen due to their prominence on local menus, so it's unlikely you'll have any animal problems here, it's far more dangerous riding. Dogs. Now these can be a problem. Most Khmer families have dogs (actually all dogs in Cambodia have the same name, dog, pronounced “ch kai”) and at night they put them on the streets to protect their property. Problem is that the later it gets the more the dogs protect, they form packs, gangs and send coded messages across town coordinating their attacks. When staggering home late, walk in the middle of the road with a confident pace, if you are hounded turn round sharply and cock your arm ready to throw imaginary stones at them, it works. If you do actually get bitten take it seriously and get rabies shots, preferably in the Pasteur Institute Phnom Penh or the SKM Hospital near the entrance to Bokor. Cats. Most cats here are genetically stunted, well their tails are. They are not mutilated at birth as some think, they actually come out that way, poor sods. It seems they were introduced by the French along with sparrows and pigeons, but in insufficient numbers so their gene pool is very limited.

18 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Do's, Dont's and Local Info... The King. Probably the coolest King in the world, never seen without a smile and an encouraging word, truly a great man. He also has a cracking sense of humour, and although he lives in Siem Reap we know he has a soft spot for the Pot. It's OK to ask questions about the King, everybody seems to love to talk about him, my X­wife has even had an audience with him, a joking and laughing affair. See, it's not odd here like it is in Thailand. Locals. Generally very friendly, all will want to help you, many will want to practice their English on you so be prepared for a slow start to the conversation, and watch out for the kids and their “hello ambushes”. Pot­Pats. Many Pot­Pats grace Kampot, some working on projects and manning the many western businesses, others eke out an existence in unknown manners, all will be bored of travel tales and backpacker woes, but most will also be happy to talk to interesting folk for the price of some beers. Beggars. Stump envy has hit Kampot with able bodied beggars renting crutches, be sure to

check the quantity of limbs before donating to some of these beggars, but don't forget some people rely on these donations for survival. Indeed our friend Spigot has managed to raise his family on these meagre offerings, putting his eldest daughter through university in PP. See, not all beggars blow their booty on booze. Backpackers. Known as snails to Pot­Pats, pregnant if wearing two backpacks (when seen without backpacks they are sometimes called naked or slugs). Usually seen walking from GH to GH while fully packed, being too damn tight to pay for a moto driver or tuk tuk that would help them, weapons! Generally welcomed in city bars as long as the money is good, rumours of backpackers being shot on sight in Kep are unfounded. Flashpackers. Very similar to backpackers but equipped with more money and better quality electronic toys, they travel via trip advisor reviews and book online. They usually miss all the good stuff as they rarely stray from their GH and WIFI, If seen exploring they do it in numbers, as it's safer that way, apparently. Hippies. Several have been sighted during the past few months but in vastly diminishing numbers, the secret eradication scheme seems

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Do's, Dont's and Local Info...

19

Do's, Dont's and Local Info... held in front of the user, so the said user may read the content you may think, but wrongly. It is actually just used as a counterbalance to the backpack the user is wearing. Rough Guide. Very similar to the LP but soon to be updated. Actually we know the budget for updating this baby, it cost an air fare and six weeks of $20/day, a total of less than $2000, so it's very doubtful this update will be extensive. Footprint Guide. This fella was a brand new guide, written from scratch we were told. It was most surprising when reading the listings within it that it listed businesses that had closed more than six years previous, a very bloody poor effort indeed! $100 Notes. These have become a bit of a problem, businesses don't trust them and will find it difficult changing them. Avoid this problem by changing your big notes into Riel at the money changers near the market, you may well find you make a small profit. Another approach is to withdraw your ATM money in multiples of $90. If you find $100 notes blowing around they WILL be fake, many people buy them to burn for good luck. Haggling. Bargaining is expected in markets, it's fun and should find a price both parties are to be working, as local spokesman states: “We happy with, but if you see a price listed that's the price you pay. will glad to see an end to the 'Suspected Flesh. This is a very conservative country, this Hippies In Transit' problem”. Backpacks. Contrary to common backpacker you must respect. Western style clothing habits belief, you do not need to carry a backpack all do not fit here, if you are scantily clad you will be judged and not respected, this is far more the time in Kampot, nor do you need to carry water bottles. In ten years of living here I have important for women. So avoid offence and wrap yourself in a suitable attire, all you have never needed more than pocket space for all to do is look around to see what the Khmer find necessary items, if I need a drink I buy one acceptable, copy the kids. from the many vendors, and it's cold too! Sucking Face. As above, this be a Lonely Planet. After years of research, the actual use of the Lonely Planet guide has been conservative place, emotions are not shown in discovered. The book in its true form should be public, ever. So don't start sucking in a public place, bar, cafe, park or beach, cos it's not cool.

20 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Do's, Dont's and Local Info... Fake Monks. These are becoming a common feature in da Pot, they scour the front and side streets preying on the unwary traveller with the intention of relieving them of their funds. Don't be fooled by the robes and trinkets, these bastards are out to rob you! Tip, real monks won't ask you for money, nor will they touch you or try to sell you crap. Real monks are reserved, educated and pretty cool, bless em. Smokes. Cigarettes are cheap and plentiful here but watch out you don't run short late at night, or you may pay some guy on the street double price for an open pack. Glue. Smoking weed in Kampot is generally a no no, a few places may allow you to smoke in an out of the way place but ask first, further out of town it's less strict. Don't forget it's illegal to sell weed in Cambodia, so don't bother asking the Pot­Pats to sell you some, you won't get any and you will get offended.

Powders and Potions. Just as Arne Anka says, this is no place to experiment with drugs, of any sort! And don't go thinking that just because you buy them from a pharmacy its OK, prescription drugs should be prescribed by a doctor, not just purchased over the counter. As for black market nasties just steer clear as you never know what you may be buying. Toilets. There are but few western type public toilets in Kampot, but all proper bars have them, phew! Khmer toilets are everywhere, every bush, tree and sign is fair game. Droppings. Don't go getting wound up if you see what looks like mouse droppings in your room, it's just gecko poop, dried up bug shell concentrate. I'm sure you'll prefer it to bugs. The Bum Gun. Possibly the best invention ever and has made possible the true paperless office. Warning, Kampot is now a high water pressure area so be careful while practising, turn on a tap to help reduce the spray pressure. It's other uses are many fold and range from the intended bum cleaning to ant control, but possibly my fave is mosquito killing, use the gun to shoot the buggers down and let surface tension do the rest.

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

21

Do's, Dont's and Local Info...

Nuts. Coconuts are a real problem, they claim as many as 600 lives each year in Thailand, so avoid loitering around the bottom of nut trees, unless you want to help us beat the Thai's. Walking. It's safe walking in Kampot, but look where you are walking, there are many holes and steps, yeah trip adviser never told you that. Sadly a couple of bag thefts have been reported recently, this is new and a very rare thing so don't panic! Just avoid using bags, if you need a bag look after it and only put the things you really need in it. Electricity. Do not bet on the timing or length of power cuts, the supplier and Cambo 6 have the system rigged. Street Lighting. Don't expect any and you won't be disappointed. Most of the main areas now sport fancy lanterns and make for favourable routes across town, but sadly the majority of the city is without. Take a torch with you if you are staying out of the way and plan to be out late. Kep has recently installed street lighting along its beach front, this is not for the pleasure of tourists but to attract crabs. Banks. There are four main banks in Kampot, Acleda, Canadia, ABA and Cambodian, all should be able to help. ATM machines are popping up everywhere and most are air conditioned, we even have one in a petrol station. Some are marked on the map. Post Office. Ah, opening times, er well this is Cambodia and things don't always run to strict timetables, but the best time I have found is mid

22 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

morning, after that you are in unknown territory. The office will also close for every public holiday and half excuse. Photo Shop. There are a few capable photo shops in town, they have been on the move lately so placing them is difficult, the easiest to find at the mo is on the old bridge road. Internet and International Calls. There are many net cafés in the city, some of them being situated along old bridge street and some on or near to the front, all should be able to handle voice over internet calls, CD burning, printing and basic surfing. TV. We have cable TV here but the channel selection is limited, auto­tune your set to access any new channels available. Pay per view is available for channels not normally supplied, a case of Anchor usually does it. Radio. There are a few radio stations you can receive on FM, short wave gives you more choice but you can still only get 12 hrs of BBC.

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

W t w M r d r s a g L s w w W s c 0 t t n W b t b t P t g t s l T c b i w p p r y

s

Do's, Dont's and Local Info / Transport... Weather. “There are holes in the sky where the rain gets in, but they are only small, that's why rain is thin” words of wisdom by Spine Millington. According to our weather team rainy season is here, so expect to get wet. If it does rain on you remember to claim your visa refund, $5 for each day of rain, but be sure to save some rain as proof. Joking apart, the rain always warns you when it's coming, if the wind gets up, it's time to take cover! Lightning. More than 100 deaths every wet season, and the last one was quite an average wet season! It's a good idea to think about where you are standing when it rains. Wedding Season. When the rains have nearly stoped, the sound of tents being erected will clatter you awake, if that fails to get you the 05.30 traditional folk music day will. You will then be forced to go out late drinking to avoid the ear splitting party that will follow. It's a nice time of year... Wedlock. A type of city­wide gridlock caused by massed wedding tents blocking major routes through the city, alternative routes will also be blocked by parked cars causing this slow city to grind to a halt. Police. If you manage to get entangled with the police its probably best to get your guesthouse involved, do tell the Pot­Pat's too as they love a good laugh, and don't expect sympathy from anyone, its a Khmer way to laugh at such things, especially death. Theft. Recently we have been immersed in a crime wave with a rash of moto thefts and burglaries in rapid succession. We suspect this is due to the tightening of Policing in Snook with the robbers moving down here to easier pickings. The Police are now on to this problem so expect an improvement during the run of this issue, but till then remember to lock your rentals up!. Although your main worry

should be your shoes, this very real threat is from drunken backpackers and Limp Dick who has taken to gathering shoes on Friday nights, so keep your shoes on! Politics. There are three main parties operating within Kampot province, the “Tupperware Party” the “Anne Summers Party” and the “Fancy Dress Party”. It's best not to go too far into Khmer politics, you can't vote here! Corruption. There is no corruption in Cambodia, none at all! The country, like all of its neighbours, is commission based, that's why it's so easy to do things here, everybody will help you because they earn a small fee for their effort. Shamelessly stolen from Adam @ The Bayon Commission. Please refer to corruption.

Transport... We at the KSG apologise for our lack of detailed travel info, there is a reason for this, it's because this is a guide for Kampot, it's purpose is to give you ideas to stay here longer, so we're buggered if we're going to help you get away!

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

23

Transport... Statues. Most major road junctions are marked with a statue, it makes sense when a large part of the population cannot read, it makes it possible to travel long distances without maps or sign posts, i.e. go straight on at the rhino and then turn left at the

telephone costs etc, if you are a really tight git you could go down the bus stop and haggle. Night Busses. We do not reccommend them, you won't get the sleep you think you will and therefore will miss a day you could have enjoyed, they are also quite dangerous. Trains. After many years waiting we now have a regular train service with trains to Sihanoukville leaving Kampot about 12.00 Friday to Sunday, and trains to Phnom Penh leave Kampot about 09.00 Saturday and Sunday. horse. Rentals. Do try to remember you are Moto Dop. These guys can make your stay responsible for the things you rent here, i.e. you good, using their translation skills you will will have to pay for repairs or replacements of explore more. Find them all around town but the things you rent, and that may mean a hefty the best speaking ones hang out along the front charge to replace the moto you get stolen. So and between the traffic circle and the bus stop. don't be stupid, look after your rental like it's Tuk Tuk. The first choice of transport these your own, keep it in sight, lock it up and keep it days, most of Kampot and the surrounding area safe if you want your passport back without can be accessed by Tuk Tuk in all weathers, paying a four figure sum to get it. popular trips are down to Kep, mangroves, Bicycle Rental. Some guesthouses offer rental pepper plantation and caves, or up to the of bikes, mainly basic bone shakers so don't get rapids, zoo and beach. too excited, although some tour companies Bus/Taxi. The easiest way to sort this is have mountain bike rental too, so use the shitty through your guesthouse, they earn a small bike to find a nice one. amount of commission for this that covers their

24 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

25

26 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Transport... puddles, this also applies to rented moto's. So if you end up having a prang and find yourself on the wrong side of the road, expect to pay large sums of compensation to all else involved, oh and some to the Police too. Helmets. The law now states all users of moto's have to wear helmets, even the passengers and drivers of tuk tuks, a maximum passenger load has also been passed as law, 2 adults and one kid per moto, all wearing helmets. So abide by this and avoid fines and brain damage. Tapping and Capping. Beware, Pot­pats in their never ending search for fun have adopted moto sabotage as a new hobby. Tapping involves turning off the fuel tap on a moto, resulting in the victim spluttering to a halt some 500m away from the crime scene. Capping is the removal of the moto's plug cap thus stopping the victim from starting their moto, the culprit then counts out the failed kicks loudly. Both of these methods are far more effective if the victim is in beer. Rush Hours. There are several rush hours during the day but the only ones that matter are 5, 6 and 7pm, they revolve around the evening classes and make it a little dodgy whilst travelling during them, with the kids zooming Moto Rental. It's popular, it's fun and it's about everywhere on their Dads Honda Dream dangerous, espicially at sunset. Motos are or Scoopy at high speeds and with little or no cheap to rent and very available, they are also direction, avoid these times if possible. very stealable so lock them up! The roads will Parking. Generally its OK to park anywhere hate you and local traffic rules will evade you, in Kampot, but do have a look to see if you are so go slow, watch out for cows n kids, go really parking in someone's drive, Khmer get pissed slow on dirt roads or in the rain and always off if they can't get their land cruiser in the show the Pot­Pats your latest wounds. drive, Pot­Pats throw rocks at you, parking can Dirtbike Rental. Dirtbikes in Cambodia are be tough in some areas! So park outside the totally unnecessary as everywhere a dirtbike business you are visiting, or along the river side goes, a Daelim has been before, probably of the front. As to parking yourself it's best to carrying 4 people and all their luggage. They take a room, sleeping out may cost you a lot are however available for rent, so be careful! more in fines! Car Rental. This is a great new addition to Kampot travel, affordable and reliable rentals Kampot Survival Guide Tours are available, check bill boards and posters. We at the KSG can now offer you small Trafic Law. It's true, there are traffic laws personalised tours with us, the authors. here! They are even available in English so Availability is limited as too are we, so contact there is no excuse for not obeying them. us early to book and avoid disappointment. Generally the laws state that you should drive [email protected] on the RIGHT, in the shade and around

New ferry terminal in construction

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

29

Transport... Boat trips to Kep. We Distance Chart now have scheduled Destination Km boat trips to and from 105 Kep. It's possible to go Sihanoukville 148 for day trips or just use Phnom Penh Koh Kong 244 the one way option if Kompong Cham you want to stay there, Kompong Chnang 272 239 it's a nice trip too! Kompong Trach 36 Ferry to Phu Quoc. Bokor 41 463 A new ferry terminal is Kratie 558 being built just south of Poi Pet Pursat 355 Kampot city, a new Siem Reap 462 road has been put in to Battambang 439 ease the flow of traffic Stung Treng 603 to it and has opened up Mondolkiri 507 a huge area for Kampot Hatien 51 to slowly expand into. Ho Chi Minh 420 As yet we don't know Trat (Tesco) 346 746 when this port will be Bangkok Vientiane 1069 opening for ferries to Phu Quoc but as soon as we know, you will, till then you will have to make your way to Ha Tien for a ferry.

Travelling Further Afield? Sihanoukville. Over 10km of beaches bars and barbecues offering mainly the same things, all styles of accommodation are available from free dorm beds to luxury suites with pools. Snook is also a great stopping off point for the islands and their nearly deserted beaches. But Snook sadly lacks any real historic interest and is bereft of culture, suiting mainly beach bums and beer monsters. Koh Kong. A sort of time capsule of what the Pot was like 8 years ago, sporting interesting architecture of all styles of Khmer dwelling, from wooden to 60's villas. Koh Kong is not just a border town, it borders the jungle and Cardamon mountains. Best of all it has cheap

30 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

rooms and great quality food, just like the Pot had some 8 years ago, a lot less choice but in vasty larger portions. Kep. A curious place that can boast more swimming pools than beach front, more walls than houses, more lanes on the roads than cars, more ruins than residences and more Vietnamese tat than you can shake a stick at, this truly is the Kingdom of Wonder! It's well worth a day trip and you never know, you might even like it and stay a while.

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Daily Events / Local Characters... Lined up and ready to race

Daily Events... Dar­ling. A daily slow motorbike race come stunt bike trials along the river front, displays every night all along the front around sunset. Fishing Boat Race. “Gok­sok” is the current leader of the league but competition is hotting up, every afternoon around 5pm they race down the river to the rich pickings of the sea, it's a nail biting thriller that sets the frame for sunset and the end of another hectic day. Traffic Circle. Occasionally there are concerts, fairs and promotions at the main traffic circle, there may be live music, films, stalls and games to play, so get down there if you suspect something maybe on. Shrimp Fishing. Every evening you will see men with miners' lamps scouring the river

banks hunting for shrimp. Its worth a look as the guys are always friendly. Fruit Stalls. Every evening old bridge street fills up with fruit shake stalls, various strange fruits are converted to fluid before your very eyes, it's worth a look. Line Dancing. At sunset in the park behind the old market and at selected hip locations, local fatties attempt to lose excess weight, it's a serious affair and costs money to join in, though it's enough fun just watching. Bouncy Bouncy. A few trampolines have been setup around town, they keep moving but still they draw quite a following with the kids, being busiest at sunset. Jumping of the Fish. Most evenings and just before sunset, the river runs flat showing beautiful reflections of the hill and riverbank. Look closely at the water and see the swiftlets skimming low over the water, then look at the fish jumping, working collectively with birds in reducing the Pot's raging bug population.

Local Characters... $100 Prize offered for the first reader with confirmed sightings of all listed characters, tick them off as you go, preferably with photographic evidence and thumb prints. Note: We no longer list (many) Khmer characters due to local western, liberal minded, do gooder, racist, NGO type complaints, bastards. □ Crazy Frog. There are two contenders for the title of “crazy frog”, neither are French but both mimic their chosen idol closely, rarely seen together but both parade the river front almost daily. □ Push Bikie Man (AKA Jack the Father or JF). Sweaty skinny foreigner always seen attached to some form of pedal powered transport, Bokor Hill is no challenge for this guy so his local knowledge of impassable trails is unsurpassed within the Province, often offensive to tourists and Pot­Pats alike, approach with caution.

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

31

32 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Local Characters... □ Racy Dog. Racy patrols a beat around the 2000 monument, he is currently unbeaten by any form of motor transport, probably all you will see of him is his clean pair of heels as he passes you. □ Bag Lady. Seen Nepenthes bokorensis upper, cruising the streets by François MEY on a modified bicycle with basket, Nepenthes bokorensis is a carnivorous plant only has a total known to live on Bokor hill. obsession with It has been known about for plastic bags but is at least one hundred years rarely seen with but was only formally any, contact should described in 2009. Its local name sometimes differs but be avoided. it is known as two things, □ The Tongue. plant' and the 'ant Seen performing at 'sausage pit', the latter being most apt the home of as the plant normally eats gurning, a ants. So if you are going up somewhat corroded the hill don't forget to stop off by Popokvil waterfall and establishment. Observed clearing have a look for this most interesting plant. his or others nostrils with his tongue, a must see. □ Mr Spoons. Utilising the latest spoon tuning techniques, Mr Spoons is devising new methods of mine detection and destruction. This pasty munching spoon playing jeep riding fella should be avoided in polite conversation. Last seen performing Indiana Jones impressions along the front. □ Predator. Following his successful movie career Predator has settled in the Pot, truth be told he actually twatted Arnie, anyhow you may catch sight of the big man either on land or water as he is a nautical type and mostly friendly. □ Bat Woman. Working a beat from the Pot to PP Bat Woman dispatches mosquitoes to Buddha for rapid reincarnation, sometimes seen wheilding two bats in a martial arts frenzy, somewhat akin to the star wars movies, at selected bars only. □ Ringo Starr (AKA Crash Test Dummy). This jovial fellow has crash tested most moto's on hire in Kampot, he will gladly show you his latest wounds at a local guest house, totally harmless and answers to “Eric”, though in an

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

33

Local Characters... books to anyone, friendly and usually harmless. □ Sausage Hunter (AKA Head Hunter). This mainly nocturnal lass can be seen scouting out new happy hours and most local bars. Well versed with the worlds mating rituals and habits this lass tracks down and secures her prey before closing time. Approach with caution. □ Rubber Band Man. This flexible fellow is in training to become a one man band, confirmed sightings are sporadic but rewarding, dependant on his fluid level. Friendly but don't mention the ashes! □ Bush Woman. Difficult to spot, she hides in thick underbrush and up trees during daylight hours and dons permanent marker makeup as a disguise after dark. Looks like a woman but drinks pepper shots like a man. Wears body armor. Hates most humans but loves animals. Do not approach from the rear. □ Jugglin Jim. Seen at most city bars nightly, this unassuming character when roused performs miracles with balls, if you can work out who he is and catch him on the right night you may well get him to perform, but don't hold your breath. angry fashion. □ Sand Man. Often seen scooting around on wheels or rowing his boat, usually looking for lost shoes and food. Like most Scots he has strange sleeping habits so also look for him in sand piles, ditches and drives, friendly to all. □ Gnome. Can be seen traversing the roads late at night in search of fluids, this rain ready fellow has aspirations of being a jockey, so never turn your back on him, he also attempts terminator impressions, usually friendly and mostly harmless. □ Vibro. Submitted by David of H Infamy's Spouse. This guy patrols the few bars he's not barred from. Practising his Bilbo Baggins impressions requires vast amounts of fluids, so for these performances he may well apply to you for sponsorship, and if he likes you he might even show you his collection of vibrating electrical appliances, unmissable! □ Comba Crew. This trio of musically minded folk perform mime and air guitar whilst keeping their eyes closed in fear of popping. Seen most evenings at musically minded bars. □ Gandhi Man. This spindle legged fellow can be seen during the early evenings, usually clad with some form of writing and willing to sell

34 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

□ ( N H a t i h □ s p m □ S s t y w □ g b t a a

Local Characters / Kampot Street Food Guide... □ Don Quixote Alto Vomotie Promotie. (AKA Mike Reed, Cliff Richard or Ken) Normally seen with his sidekick Kermit the Hog, this fella stalks the bars and music events around, well all of Cambodia. Being an island type he is friendly to most, well except other islanders. Best seen late at night when the homing instinct kicks in. □ Racy Cow. Racy is still just a calf but is showing much potential. She trains around the pond and usually races in the late afternoon, mainly taking on moto's and sometimes cars. □ Torchie, the re­chargeable battery boy. Seen most nights scouring the river front for supposedly missing items that he never seems to find. Not exactly riveting entertainment but you never know, maybe one day he will find what he's looking for. □ The Gate­Crashers. A group of folked up guys that descend upon unsuspecting businesses armed with musical weapons, then they play their little hearts out till late whilst attempting to drink the establishment dry. Not at all bad entertainment.

by Steve J (with a "P")

Kampot Street Food Guide Cheap Eats For Around A Dollar Spam Baguettes: half or full bread roll with two or three kinds of highly processed WTF ersatz meat (allegedly pork based), shallot and cucumber and with sweet or chili sauce. Often served with an accompanying pickled green papaya salad Price: R2500 for half and R5000 full. Where: all around Kampot (look for the stack of baguettes on an ambling trolley) but centralized around the main traffic circle, outside the main market on new bridge road and down old bridge road in the evenings. SB’s are also available in chicken and pork versions but while the meat is recognizable, they are more expensive and meat portions can be parsimonious. (Verdict – a decent snack or small meal) Fruit Drinks: (Khmer name tuk krolok) identifiable and exotic fruits of your choice are placed in a blender and emulsified with sweetened condensed milk, coconut milk, sugar, Milo, ice and possibly an egg. Tastes a lot better than it sounds but insulin dependent

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

35

Kampot Street Food Guide... demonstrate that you are eating a quality product. Price: R3000 for the fairly basic, low protein version to R5000 or even R6000 for the chock full of protein version. Where: everywhere. Look for the stack of packet noodles on stalls, in shop fronts or rambling trolleys. (Verdict – this is an excellent all­round snack or full meal at the higher price range). Ice Cream: there are at least four different Khmer ice cream makers pedaling their wares on pushbike around Kampot. A favorite with local expats is the coconut flavored ice cream in a homemade sugar cone made and sold by the man wearing a white hat who rides a pushbike fitted with a small umbrella. Where: meandering around Kampot but often seen along riverside. Price: R1000. (Verdict – an excellent, locally made snack). Popcorn: The sweet variety familiar to Westerners and generally of high quality. Note however that un­popped corn is poorly sorted from popped and indiscriminately biting down on one of these kernels may cost you a dental filling. Look for gallivanting trolleys with bags of popcorn hanging from their sides. Where: along riverside in the evening but also around

t b D a e h w s p r C y B a t w S f t c j W b R t S y

diabetics should approach with extreme caution. Note that you will be asked to pay a bit extra if you decide to include some durian in your comingled fruit cocktail. Price: R2000. Where: on the old bridge road, on the riverside between the two bridges in the evening and on a peripatetic trolley coming soon to you. (Verdict – very sweet) Sweet Food: another rigorous workout for your pancreas. Bananas, beans, sticky rice, ginger and other fruits and vegetables are sliced and diced and placed in a marinade of sweetened condensed milk, coconut milk and liquefied sugar which is then served in a plastic cup with a spoon. Again, better than the description would indicate if you have a sweet tooth. Price: R1000. Where: on the old bridge road, on the Big Durian traffic circle across from the night market and near Heng Dy drink shop in the evenings. (Verdict – even sweeter) Noodles: a half a liter of normal saline is added to generic dried packet noodles and then various goodies are added to the mix. Some of these goodies are recognizable. The plastic flavorings sachets are sometimes left in the bowl at serving, possibly to provide extra dietary roughage but more likely to

36 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Kampot Street Food Guide...

town. Price: R1000. (Verdict – a great snack but watch the dental fillings). Duck Embryos: strictly for the culinary adventurous S.E. Asia traveler, or dissolute expats who have lost the plot entirely, an un­ hatched duckling is boiled in its shell and eaten with a spoon. The duckling should be sufficiently formed so as to be al dente ­ or possibly al beake. Where: on the old bridge road and on the Kep road just past the Two Cows intersection. Price: R1500. (Verdict – are you nuts?) Bar­B­Q Squid: small, dried squid are stacked and suspended from the sides of peregrinating trolleys where they resemble decks of cards with tentacles or something from a low budget SCI FI movie. Chock full of high tensile sea­ foodie flavor, your chosen squid are served for takeaway, lightly toasted over charcoal with a chili dipping sauce. An excellent spicy beef jerky is often sold from the same trolley. Where: frequently based on the riverside strip but also on touring trolleys around town. Price: R1000 to R2000 per serve. (Verdict – high tensile sea foodie flavor) Steamed Sweet Corn: Look for the dark yellow variety as this is generally sweet

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

whereas the white variants only function seems to be the alleviation of constipation by ingesting a mega hit of dietary fiber. Corn is steamed and served hot with a coating of “butter” which is actually margarine, egg and sugar mix – much more palatable than the ingredients suggest. Bar­B­Q white corn is also everywhere in the unlikely event that your constipation proves resistant to the steamed version. Where: often based on the riverside strip. Price: R1300 per cob but slight fluctuations according to seasonal availability. (Verdict – high quality sweet corn and an excellent snack) Bread: (phonetic Khmer: nom­pang) generally sold as baguettes in small, large and jumbo versions. This is an inexpensive and filling way to overcome your cravings for Western style (low­ish sugar content) bread. Where: There are a few bakeries around town now however look for the Man With No Shirt bakery (a bit of an institution in Kampot) about 50 meters down the road from Epic Arts or a further 50 meters along that road and round the corner to your left. Baguettes are also sold in and outside the market. Price: R500 – R1000 – R1500 according to size. (Verdict – these prices are

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

37

Kampot Street Food Guide... unchanged in six years – so much for inflation) Sugarcane Juice: hand cranked or electrically powered mangles are used to extract the juice from stalks of sugarcane and half a lime (phonetic Khmer: croich mah) or mandarin orange which is then served over crushed ice ­ very refreshing. Iced black tea (Thailand Red Tea Number 1 Brand ­ look for the tins on trolleys) with lime juice ­ with or without sugar according to your taste ­ is also excellent. Where: both inside and outside of the market or look for the stacks of sugarcane and often brightly painted mangles around town. Price: R1000 per glass. (Verdict – excellent and refreshing and this price is are also unchanged in six years) Coconuts: (Khmer: Doang) al fresco, nutritious refreshment in a portable and hygienic container. Where: everywhere around Kampot – look for the stack of green coconuts outside shops and stalls. Price: R2000. (Verdict – surprisingly variable tastes ­ refreshing) Roasted Peanuts: small, highly flavored peanuts roasted in the shell and often sold by Cham Muslim ladies who circumambulate around Kampot carrying large aluminum basins of the legume on their heads. A larger, boiled­in­salted­water variant is also sold in the shell. Where: Circumambulating. Price: R1000 per serve. (Verdict – often very small but very tasty) Cut Fruit Trolley: assorted peeled and sliced fruits behind glass on a traveling trolley. Some of the tropical fruits are quite seasonal while many are available in greater or lesser quantities all year round. Kampot is a major fruit growing center so if you have not tried them yet, we recommend local mangoes, mangosteens, longans, rambutans, custard apples, guavas, watermelon and or course – durian. Where: often based on the riverside strip but also nomadic. Price: R1000 per serve. (Verdict – Kampot has some of the best tropical fruit in South East Asia). Last reviewed January 2016.

By Irvin S.

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG ACE Reporter.

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

38

waterways. When their ruler went for or, The Dangers of Past Life Regression. a walk, he stood on top of an Our tribal elders taught us that very long ago we elephant, holding lived on peaceful atolls and in lush river deltas, a golden sword. drinking palm wine all day and sculling about in He was our sampans, fishing. We would steal supplies surrounded by a from the smithies of the hills and the retinue of at least woodcutters of the forest only once a year, just 1000 female enough to repair our outriggers, patch up our guards, maids and spritsails and put fresh tips on our crocodile concubines. hunting spears. Many of our Then one day, the Kamboja horsemen came people took to from the northwest and occupied the river piracy out of envy, others were just hungry. valleys, diverting streams to water their crops, Those who were caught became slaves for the causing our supplies of free fruit to dwindle. newly formed city states. However, most of us They employed hundreds of elephants, using kept out of sight, surviving in the shadow of their strength to cut down whole mountains, Angkor. We stayed true to the old ways, living building palaces for divine kings. off the bounties of the sea and whatever the tide We used to worship those mountains and the brought in. elephants had ruled our realm for millennia, Soon, even more foreigners appeared in well while the oceans were ruled by whales and the protected fleets. Sailing enormous galleys past rivers by snakes. They called us the Water our coastal village and right up to the Tonle Sap, Chenla, we resented that title, as the land was they docked and bought up huge bulks of gold once ours too. Phunan was our first name, the and silver, agar wood, hibiscus cannabinus and name of our ancestors. We avenged them by morus indica, monkeys and slaves, peacocks and jealously raiding the newcomers’ encampments. pearls, gemstones and worst of all ivory. In response, the Kambojas fortified their They transported these goods to faraway settlements and began amassing great wealth in markets. We did not know where, until one storehouses made of lead, granite and ancient summer, when a lone great frigate marooned redwoods. Entire forests were burned down to herself near Kampot, offseason and visibly make room for their ever rising ambitions, their tattered. It had tacked the wrong way from innumerable herds, their incredible temples and Malacca against the monsoon storms to avoid pursuing slavers’ ships, with sails full of holes and a crew of only 16. One of her wounded and worn mates, the captain was my great uncle. He rallied the enslaved sailors, who gained control of the helm and threw their masters overboard. They spared some women folk for genetic experiments and a few fat guys for sustenance. Of the 16, three were from Gaul, one from Carthage, two from Lucitania, a Scythian and a few Celts, the rest South East Asians. All were bent on revenge. Carrying new knowledge of the Erythrean and Chinese seas, they planned many pillaging missions and dreamed of nothing but plunder and glory.

Distoric memories of a Pirate Past

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

39

Distoric memories of a Pirate Past... The females, whom they had brought back, were mostly from the Levant and India, though some came from as far as Rome. All of us, pirates really enjoyed their company. They informed us that in Jerusalem of King Solomon our country was called Ophir and in the Kushite Kingdoms, Suvarnabhumi meaning the Land of Gold. For centuries before and after this incident, members of our clan relied on privateering for procreation. My grandfather assumed that he was half Khmer, half Cham, half Iban. He thought this because the Iban from Labuan ate his uncle and the Cham sailed off with his grandmother towards Ha Tien, roughly 1800 years ago. The Khmer half however was all original. While pulling on his jade chillum, grandpa liked to take the family history all the way back to the legend of the Brahmin prince, who wedded Soma, the Naga princess by attacking her junk and boarding it. The Serpent King father drank seas of salty tears, exposing the peninsula and islands, which been our home ever since. Inside our old thatch roofed longhouse was a hoard of trophies from the bygone eras. A chiseled Yuan hand cannon collected dust in the corner. It belonged to a commander, who lagged

behind in 1293, when the Mongols retreated through our waters. A kris, curved like a wave hung on the wall in a gilded sheath, pocked by score marks etched during the war with Champa, three centuries earlier. A lingam from Phnom Kulen served as the family altar. It was adorned with piles of priceless bangles, donated by ladies of various courts, who had been welcomed into our tribe over the centuries. By the time granddad had his own war­junk it was already the 1690s. A fine ship of Japanese design, it featured 8 guns and the latest in navigation technologies. He said that it practically sailed itself and always referred to his shipmates as good for nothing, lazy brothers in law. It made sense, as quite a few were Javans, who loved their poppies and rum. The tribe then featured at least 108 nationalities in 33 extended households. All were related. They regularly threw parties to foster family affairs with people in unsuspecting trading towns around the South China Sea and beyond. This was a particularly pleasant enterprise in Cambodia, where women handled all negotiations and financial matters, while men worked for the government, building stuff and digging canals. Grandpa’s personal armament consisted of an arquebus, gifted by an uncle from Lezhboa and a rapier that rolled off of Francis Drake’s Golden Hind, which he found in his youth, while catching crabs. He had 17 kids from 18 prior engagements, most of whom had perished in engagements of their own, my line having drifted around the globe on a stand up paddle board. His gang was known as the Green Nagas, for the seaweed stained sails of their ever capsized boats. A result of a daring tactic they had employed, flipping their vessels and attacking enemy ships from under water. They were widely feared and practically invincible until the British showed up with submarines in the 1920s. Those were hard times, between the great wars, when every belligerent nation was rebuilding at the expense of our protected world. Things got even worse later in the century, carpet bombing and civil strife, spreading indiscriminate violence. We survived nonetheless as we always did by appropriating American arms, stealing oil from Saudis, and selling sand to Singapore.

By Yan Fat Cat, Junior Reporter and Official KSG Distorian.

40 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Learn some useful Khmer

function which seems to primarily lie in reconciling apparent Yin – Yang contradictions An introduction to the language. or in an attempt to find the Buddhist Middle Knowing a few phrases in Khmer always earns Path by linguistic means. smiles and nods of approval from locals as well An example of their use is the old Khmer word Narse which means both yes – and ­ no as crusty Kampot expatriates who are simultaneously. It would be used where a irritatingly fluent in the Cambodian language. person was conflicted to the point of paralysis – Unlike Thai, Vietnamese, Hmong or several other languages, Khmer is not a tonal language and the Gods know we have all been there ­ and and is therefore not difficult to master. Anyone can say neither yes nor no with any conviction ­ only Narse. And so the sublime Middle Path is with even a rudimentary flair for languages expressed in a single word and the Yin and the should be able to achieve total fluency Yang are gently melded. An additional example following half an hour of intensive ridicule­ of Dichotomous Vowel usage can be found in based tuition interspersed with episodic bouts the word Swour which is used when it is of corporal punishment. As a basic guide, Khmer has 735 vowels – 3 of difficult to tell if something is sweet or sour. Where it becomes totally impossible to which are pronounced as the letter o (o = distinguish sweet from sour, the amplifier Nah ocelot) and 9 pronounced as the letter u (u = is used as in Swour Nah. ululation). The remaining 723 vowels are divided into three basic groups. The first group As a sidelight, the amplifying or strengthening word Nah is extremely useful. For example the is comprised of those vowels (the so called phrase That Daewoo Tico Is A Basket Case – Voluptuous Empire Vowels) which were in Nah indicates to the listener that the Daewoo common use by royalty and noble families Tico under discussion is in fact a completely between the reigns of Jayavarman VI (1080 ­ moribund vehicle without any redeeming 1107 CE) and Amazingman III (1229 ­1230 features whatsoever. CE). These vowels are rounded, mellifluous, supple, sinuous ­ even sensuous if listened to in The False Profit Consonants are not without a darkened room faintly perfumed with the scent of ylang­ylang and musk. Unfortunately they are also totally incomprehensible – their meaning lost in the ghastly dark­age aftermath of the cataclysmic fall of Amazingman III's opulent but decadent kingdom. All that we have left is a sort of wistful, yearning aphasia ­ the sumptuous, seductive sounds stripped of all meaning. The second group of vowels is commonly known as Dichotomous Vowels but also – somewhat cruelly ­ as False Profit Consonants. The name refers to the initial sense of elation in the belief that these vowels might be quite valuable – linguistically speaking – followed by the prolonged kick in the guts – metaphorically speaking – felt by many that they aren't and that they have been had. These vowel sounds appear to mimic the common o = ocelot and u = ululation vowel sounds while promising the facility and versatility of having the additional aural footprint of a consonant. In the modern era, the real purpose of the Dichotomous Vowels is often seen as something of a puzzle and they are rarely used in colloquial Khmer. This is a pity as they had an important traditional

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

41

Learn some useful Khmer... merit; their disuse may indicate that people really don't like to be bothered asking the difficult questions these days. Or perhaps for many, it is just that they don't find too much profit in the merit making business anymore. The final vowels group have no equivalent sound in any of the Indo­ European languages and are either silent, impossible to pronounce ­ no matter how much corporal punishment is administered ­ or are completely ludicrous. One of the great advantages in learning the Khmer language is that while there are there are 723 vowels, there are only 2 consonants ­ the letter P (p = pea) and the letter Q (q = queue) which of course leads to the tired old joke – if you want to learn Khmer, you really need to watch your P's and Q's. Grammatical structure is of course simplicity itself. Following the period known as The Three Great Steps Forward and The Five Modernizations in the 1960's, laissez­faire or ad­hoc form of communication became the norm. From that point on, everyone made it up as they went along and,

42 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

as a result, while nobody could actually understand each other, it didn't really seem to matter very much and non verbal communication gradually took precedence. Smiling a lot became – and continues to be – commonplace. The Three Great Steps Forward were of course: 1. We will step forwards 2. We will not step backwards 3. Yeah For those unfamiliar with The Five Modernizations, they were: The replacement of organized, intelligible communication with some kind of loose, smiling free­for­all The replacement of the National Anthem with the Elvis Presley hit Viva Las Vegas The building of Olympic Stadiums in every town in Cambodia with a population over 18 people The adoption of 10,000 Reil Pizza as the national dish The decree that every working week throughout the year should contain one – and preferably two – public holidays.

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Learn some useful Khmer...

For the short­term visitor to Kampot who is Chicken Breast in Kampot Pepper time pressured and averse to the horrific mental and Garlic Gravy and physical abuses of the intensive half hour An intensely flavored dish featuring Kampot Khmer language training courses, there are Pepper. easier and less traumatic ways to communicate Serves 2. Preparation and cooking time 40 min. with local people. Relax. Smile. Enjoy your stay Nah.

By Irvin S.

KSG ACE Reporter.

Ingredients: 400g of chicken breast meat 2 full knobs of garlic – reduce to 1 full knob if quality garlic 1 large brown onion 1 heaped tablespoon of black Kampot Pepper 2 x heaped teaspoons of commercially available gravy making powder e.g. Gravox 5 x tablespoons of olive oil 1 x level teaspoon of sugar 375 milliliters of water

Method: Finely chop the onion and garlic. Coarsely grind the Kampot Pepper – it should yield two heaped teaspoons of ground pepper. Place the ground pepper with the Gravox powder in a container and add the water. Stir until well blended and put aside. Cube the chicken breasts into small bite­sized pieces. Add the olive oil to a heavy base fry pan and cook the chicken over medium heat until the pieces start to turn golden. Add the chopped onion and garlic to the chicken. Continue cooking until all develop colour and the onion and garlic start to caramelize. Turn the heat up to high and add the blended Kampot Pepper and Gravox liquid and the teaspoon of sugar. Stir and turn heat down to low. Simmer for twenty minutes or until the gravy has started to thicken. Suggested serving accompaniments – chat potatoes and lightly steamed green beans. Suggested wine – a full bodied Cabernet Sauvignon.

t

This recipe kindly supplied by the KSG's own, "Mystery Chef"

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

43

Daelim Diaries Quiescent Days No arduous tour to relate in this chapter, an ambitious trip is currently in the planning stage. The Daelim Owners Gang (DOG) has kept busy on a variety of daytrips from the Pot. Vietnam now has a free 15 day visa on arrival for many nationalities, so why not a day trip? Good roads all the way and with only 1 beer stop we arrived at the border in an hour. The immigration officials were polite and efficient both sides of the border and within 30 minutes we were through. Less than 2 hours after leaving the Pot we were now drinking Saigon beer on the riverside in Ha Tien. We took a brief ride to investigate the back streets of the town and the port area. All roads good, everyone wearing crash helmets, no crazy overloaded motos and no Lexus trying to kill us; we were confused and disorientated. Returned to the riverside and watched river life over a few beers. The ride back to the border was via a coastal road, no traffic, beautiful views, sweeping bends bikers enjoy; reminiscent of the Great Ocean Road in Australia, but a bit shorter. Also a couple of big resorts with lovely beaches, cold beer and food. Back to the border, smooth and easy getting back in the Bodge. It was now evident we were not going to get back to the Pot by sunset. A tough decision had to be made as one of the DOG laws is “3.4 All gang members must consume a beer while watching the sunset”. Laws are laws and if that meant us having to enter a rivals turf, then so be it. We arrived in Kep cruised the sea front and found the late night bar run by an X­Pot. A slow ride back in the dark and all returned safely. The new passenger train between Snook and PP via Pot was reason for another excursion. We arrived in downtown Snook at 5pm on a holiday weekend with the objective of reaching the train station by 7am the next By Donkey Dave morning. Off to the beach. We managed an admirable number of bars on the slow stroll along the promenade. At

44 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

D b i p h a t w y c e t T D b s l S o v d a i c t s K c b C m m u

P

Daelim Diaries...

By Donkey Dave

approximately 3am we thought it time to start our journey towards the station. We made it to G’Day Mate, a 24hr downtown bar and from there to the train station, just in time. A pleasant and relaxing journey through the countryside but to our dismay there was no beer sold on the train; only noodles and water! This was resolved with a phone call. On arrival in the Pot more DOGs joined the train with refreshments – beer, ice, cheese + biscuits. Although the train is officially non­smoking, the guards have no problem with you standing by the doorway and having a smoke. There was an altercation with a tourist who thought that “we were affecting the indigenous people’s customs and traditions while also encouraging addiction and tempting young onlookers to smoke”. We agreed and carried on. On arrival in PP normal shenanigans ensued and DOGs drifted back to the Pot over the following few days. The new secret lake was investigated using the DOG tour bus. A few shacks with plentiful cold beer and food on the water’s edge; ideal for a swim in clean, cold, freshwater. Details on this location have been kept deliberately vague. Several members went back to their homelands or on holidays and stories from these trips are varied, but they all carry a similar theme: drinking good beer, meeting family, old friends and having fun. Highlights from gang members include; Sky diving, Cliff walking, attending concerts (some playing, some listening), golf, trekking to Everest base camp, pub fights, surfing, squash, museums and culture + stuff. Kampot DOGs now have a permanent clubhouse at The Pond, a gang president has been elected and a motto agreed: “Carpe Cervisiam!”. We have regular Sunday club meetings, new members are usually welcome.

By Dickus Bigus Part­time ACE Reporter. By Donkey Dave

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

Things you didn't know about Kampot. 1. Kampot led the Cambodian space race during the 1950's and 60's as Bokor Hill was used for test launchings of their experimental “Woo­ung Gao Soo Gom­lung” rockets. 2. Kampot changed its name shortly after Kep was named, it was re­named specifically to avoid any confusion with Kep, the name is derived from two words “Kamp” and “Not”. 3. Bokor Hill used to be a proper mountain with a pointy top, but the French stole it. 4. In 1967 Kampot FC toured Europe on an extensive and unbeaten tour. 5. Kampot was originally built around a system of canals akin to Venice, sadly due to neglect these waterways have silted and dried, only to be seen during exceptionally heavy rains. 6. Bokor Hill is still an active volcano, difficult to see during the wet season but all through the dry times you will see smoke rising from the hill. 7. Kampot City is larger than the City of London, in both size and population. 8. Backgammon is one of the worlds oldest games, and no surprise it was invented in Kampot. 9. Kampot's tallest tree is nearly 15m high. 10. Watt Phnom in Phnom Penh is not only the highest place in Cambodia, its actually the original peak from Bokor Mountain. it was removed by the French in the 1860's and moved to its present position in 1876, nobody knows why.

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

45

Some Useful Numbers... Apartment. Auberge du Soleil Bandini's Banyan Tree. Baraca Bart the Boatman. Bluestar Real Estate. Blue Buddha. Bokor Mt Lodge. Champa Lodge GH. Chez Aline. Climbodia. Crotch Potatoes. Crab Shuttle. Diamond Hotel Divino. Donkey Promotions. Ecran Movies. Ecran Noodles Ellies. Epic Arts Cafe. Farm Link. Green House GH. Jam Tic GH. Kampot Backgammon Club. Kampot Curry House. Kampot Kenny's. Kampot Manor. Kampot Pie & Ice Cream Palace GH.

0977356554 0888820245 087923623 078665094 011290434 092174280 012611317 017843550 033932314 092525835 0887621412 095581951 093218956 0888296644 0336300800 0884791027 089588908 093249411 010249411 0963092300 092922069 0333902354 0888863071 089588908 0121707857 0976194522 0972131306 093631904 099657826

46 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

Kampot Riverside Hotel. Kepler's Books. Koy Koy. Laundry Cafe. Le Comptoir. Love the River. Loving Spoon. Magic Sponge GH. Mea Culpa GH. Monkey Republic. Oh Neil's. Paris GH. Pepe & the Viking. Pink Sands Villa. Pita Kebab & Falafel. Potshots. Rikitikitavi GH. River Lodge. River Runner Boat Trips. Rusty Keyhole 2. Sonja Kill Mem Hospital reception. Sonja Kill Mem Hospital emergency. Subworks. Tertulia Restaurant. Tiny Kampot Pillows. Together. Tuk tuk, Chak kan. Tuk tuk, Parry. Two Moons GH. Villa Vidici. Wonderland.

012351764 0977774493 0968538080 085811001 085264239 016627410 089981974 017946428 012504769 012848390 015207790 0335034777 0967390284 0968801121 078796440 0974912943 012235102 078550145 095656799 077650195 077666752 078265782 077523170 089850358 0977666094 010721761 012456935 092323274 033932857 089290714 012374052

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Projects & Voluntary Work... There are many ways you can spend your time doing good in Kampot, listed below are a few NGO's and projects that could do with your help, either by donating or volunteering. Project Cambodia was established by the Buddhist Library and Australian dentist Dr Cecilia So, it provides dental aid as a humanitarian programme which delivers basic dental services to the children who live in Cambodia’s 4th largest city, Kampot. Further info here, http://www.buddhistlibrary.org.au/project­ cambodia/dental­aid­project­3 Epic Arts Café. The place to be if you have a sweet tooth or have a liking for good coffee, run by and for the disabled, it helps! So get down there. They also have a new performance centre and workshops near the friendship monument, (the one with the guns) check the cafe for further details. Kampot Traditional Music School. Pop in and check them out, Khmer music and dance is not all karaoke based and some is really good, so is the dance so check them up and book yourself a performance. Sisters II / Heritage Orphanage. Cafe fare and internet in one building, breakfasts, cakes and sandwiches to feast on whilst doing your email. The cafe funds a small orphanage near to the Olympic stadium, so drop by and help support the kids. Kep Gardens Association is an Education Centre providing vocational skills that will assist rural Cambodian youth to gain employment. Why not stay at Kep Gardens in our bunkhouse in the middle of a village? Meet many students in a one­on­one reading and conversation

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

program. Become part of the team at Kep Gardens working to provide opportunities to the children and youth of Kampong Tralach community. 015 653 371 [email protected] Prek Thnout Community. Save Cambodia's Wildlife started this project back in 2007, it's now running nicely and offers village homestay visits and day trips. Also trekking to local falls, rattan furniture production and boat trips to see dolphins. It's 30km towards Snook and well sign posted. Chumkriel Language School is a Cambodian organisation striving to provide accessible education and assistance to the local community. CLS takes experienced volunteers who meet certain criteria for periods of 1 month or longer. Intending volunteers must submit an application at least 6 weeks before proposed start date. Contact us via our website. http://chumkriellanguageschool.org/

Bokor View English School (BVES) is a non­ profit Community Organization. BVES welcomes English speaking volunteers for real English practice. For more information, please see bveskp.org Don Bosco Kep is a charitable technical school and children fund to educate children and youth from poor communities of the region. Foreign volunteers are welcome. It offers services for their sustainability inc. laundry, Internet, electrical, computers, Khmer lessons, sports and hospitality. Contact Fr. Samnang [email protected].

If you know of any other NGO's or projects that "deserve" a mention, please do let us know as we really want to expand this section.

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

47

Bars, Restaurants and Rooms. Auberge du Soleil. Swiss run restaurant with 3 comfortable rooms set in a colonial house just one road from the front. Menu offers Swiss cheese fondue and raclette, and from all day budget meals to fine dining french cuisine. Open 7am­10pm, Closed monday nights. Baraca. Enjoy delicious tapas & daily specials with a bottle of Cava or other fine drinks in our cosy bar. Our 4 bright airy rooms have been restored with love & a cool twist on Kampot's original features. Bandini's. French run guesthouse, bar, restaurant and bookshop between the market and the new bridge. Chill out garden, board games and Italian coffees for a lazy afternoon. Rooms with fan and hot showers for $11. Billabong. A charming comfortable guesthouse with swimming pool & pool bar, 10 bed dorm & 14 private rooms, a great place to chill out by the pool . Blue Buddha. Spacious modern rooms starting from $20. Includes; free WiFi, A/C, solar hot shower en­suite, fridge, cable flat screen TV and thick imported mattresses. English, French and Khmer speaking staff. Crotch Potatoes. Spud House & Sports Lounge, Kampot’s most comfortable sports

48 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

lounge. A cool laid back joint serving the world’s best jacket potatoes!!" Cold beer, cool tunes & great vibes! FB Couch Potatoes – Kampot. Ecran noodle & dumpling house. Kampots only pulled noodle house. Handmade Chinese pulled noodles and home­made dumplings. Also, Peking duck! Tasty, cheap and filling. Ecran movie house & cinema. Join our monthly schedule (4pm/7.30pm) or rent a private movie room: choose your time & movie. + movie uploads! Fat Cat is more social club than tincture shop. Frequented by geezers, seeking the fountain of youth, as well as the town's most beautiful girls, hoping to talk to Yan. Free Pee Stop. Our Secret Lake Community School ­ established in 2011 with Khmer and English teachers. Now operating a small restaurant selling the best fish menu from our own fish farm. This provides training for older children in book keeping, waiting on tables and cooking. Green House. Beautiful Guest House and restaurant set in a lush garden with stunning views of the Kampot river. French chef creating unique Kampot pepper cuisine in a fusion of Cambodian and French influences. Greenhouse is also a popular sunset spot. Jam Tic. Set on the slopes of Phnom Ker wirh stunning views of Kep and Bokor, rooms $3, AC, HW, Spa, en suite, swimming pool, free moto & boat rental, bar & restaurant, English, French, Greek and Khmer spoken but not understood. Kampot Kenny's. Bar & Guesthouse with $6 ­ 7$ Double Rooms. Kampot Kenny's also has a bar with a pool table where it's nice to have a drink and meet other travelers. [email protected] www.kampotkennys.com Kampot Manor. New Aus run bar, restaurant and guesthouse on the way out to fish isle. Offering short and long term stays with the added advantage of an Aus chef and imported meats to ease your acclimatisation to the Pot. Kampot Pie and Ice Cream Palace GH. Canadian/Khmer run restaurant and guest house just off the northern front. Offering all manner of sweet things and some hearty snacks. Rooms $6 ­ $25, AC, HW, TV, en suite, WIFI, English and Khmer spoken. Kampot Riverside Hotel. Aus run hotel and cocktail lounge on the northern front. AC, HW, TV, WIFI, fridge, tea/coffee facilities, en suite.

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

Bars, Restaurants and Rooms. Rooms $25­49, English and Khmer spoken. The Loving Spoon. The First restaurant in Kampot to serve you breakfast from 6.10 in the morning. We enjoy breakfast and are always open to meet people who are interested in life. The rest of the day we want to spoil you with our authentic Thai food, cooked for you by our Thai cook. Everything we cook is made with fresh products and preferable direct from the growers. Open 0610­1300 + 1600­2100, closed on Thursdays. Laundry Cafe. New US American run bar, cafe and laundramat, situated in the old market serving snacks, meals and more. Magic Sponge. Western run guesthouse, restaurant, sports bar with 65” TV, beer garden,

Whats Gone or Moved.

Akashi Cafe ­ Became the Fish Market.

Alaska Super Club ­ Gone. Bamboo Light Cafe ­ Became Blue Bar (& Red). Bar Red ­ Became Baraca. Blank Canvas ­ Became Olly's place. Blissful ­ Became Monkey Rep. BlueBarRed ­ Became Pepé & The Viking Blue Dragon ­ Became Rusty then Lost Art Blue Mountain ­ Became Rheaj's Burger Bodhi Villa ­ Became The Banyan Tree. Bonkors ­ Became Oh Neil's Bokor M't Club ­ Became Marco Polo Bokor View Hotel ­ Gone

Books n Hammocks ­ Gone

Coco House ­ Became Rusty Keyhole Comfortably Numb ­ Became Bar­Red Curry Shack ­ Gone Famous Kampot Jack's ­ Became Kampot Kenny's Green man ­ Became Max's Honey Bar ­ Became ABC and then Birds Nest Ike Bar ­ Gone

Indo bar ­ Became Twenty Three

Jasmine ­ Became Frangipani then Together Kampocchino/Copper Pot ­ Became Ellie's Place Kampot Interact ­ Became K'Pot Souvenirs Kiri Guesthouse ­ Gone Le Niam Bay ­ Gone Long Villa ­ Became Billabong Lucci Food ­ Gone Marco Polo ­ became Bokor M't Lodge Mearly Chender ­ Gone

Moliden ­ Gone

Moon's Guesthouse ­ Became Fireflies pre­school

Open Space ­ Gone

Piggies ­ Became Kampocchino Rheaj's Burger ­ Became Wunderbar Salt n Pepper ­ Became Rosie & then Flower Senoir Sushi ­ Became Auberge du Soleil Southern Cross Motel ­ Gone Srey Mom Cafe ­ became Rusty 2 Sundowner Tavern ­ Became Salt n Pepper & thats gone The Villa ­ Became The Manor Utopia ­ became Arcadia Whats Hot in Kampot ­ Gone

Wunderbar ­ Gone

www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

free minigolf, two pool tables, darts. Live music Wednesday and Saturday. Large menu, big portions. Newly remodeled A/C and fan rooms. Superior penthouse fresh air dorm with duvets, private sundeck, hot water, internet TV lounge. Mea Culpa. Irish run bar restaurant and guest house behind the Governors residence, wood fired pizza oven and nice bar in a large secluded garden. Rooms $25 ­ 30, AC, HW, TV, DVD, WIFI, en suite, garden, parking, English and Khmer spoken. Monkey Republic. Bar, restaurant & hostel, sister of the world famous Monkey Republic in Snook. AC dorms and private rooms available. Fully renovated over the past 6 months. Happy hours 4­8pm, food served, open 7 days a week. Located at the former Blissful GH. Pepé and the Viking. Guest House Bar Restaurant at riverfront, serving Viking dishes and French specialties. Sandwiches with best homemade bread in Kampot. Wine, beer, cocktails, river ­ Perfect sunset place. Cheap room and Dormitory! Pink Sands Villa. A lovely setting on the river with luxury, gardens and pink sand. Spacious rooms having full facilities and patios starting from $36. Restaurant and Live Jazz Bar. Potshots. Kampot's first Paintball arena. Top quality equipment, great fields, shooting range and viewing platform equipped with firemans pole. Well stocked bar and snacks. Located less than 3km from town and off the Snook road, please call for bookings. Rikitikitavi. Popular British/Dutch run breezy balcony restaurant and bar with lovely views and great service. Serves top quality freshly prepared Khmer and western dishes. Sunset cocktails 2=1. Open daily 7AM­10PM. Very well appointed stylish rooms $48­$58. TripAdvisor Hall of Fame Rusty Keyholes. Brit/Khmer run restaurant and bar. Popular sunset spot to enjoy their award winning ribs, pies, pizza, western and Khmer food. Two locations, on the front by the old market, and Rusty 2 Sports bar and restaurant at the 2000 monument. Sub Works. Quality sub sandwich shop and delicatessen. serving hot and cold subs, panini's and home made snacks. open late till 1a.m. with free local delivery. Tiny Kampot Pillows Shop. Hand made pillows, cushions, pillowcases and covers as individual gifts or in commercial quantities.

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016

49

Bars, Restaurants and Rooms / Contact us. Wide range of fabrics to choose from. Small orders usually completed within 24 hours. Also selling krama items, photos, postcards etc. All made in Kampot. Together Restaurant. All fresh products and home made. House speciality: Cordon bleu / fish fillet lime sauce / beef fillet three Kampot pepper sauce/ Amok / Loklak Shakadao / Thai and Khmer curries / all kind of pizza and pasta / Sweets / French deserts Twenty Three. A new bar and bistro with a cool, relaxed and friendly atmosphere, emphasising on a fresh, homemade western style menu using local products. Open from 11 am everyday. Two Moons. Two Moons hotel european owned on a tranquil setting on the river just south of town. Great views, luxurious rooms and a new swimming pool. Fine cuisine with asian and european food by European chef. Villa Vidici. Garden resort on the riverfront. Rooms and family bungalows. Swimming pool and bar. Free Wifi, Sat TV, Playstation 3. Sunset cruises, Kite surfing, wake boarding, water skiing, kayaking, mountain biking, basketball, pool table, ping pong. Wonderland. Frozen yogurt & toppings. Home made popsicles 100% made in Kampot with local fresh fruits! Yummy ice cream starts at $1.5 Located across from the Old Market opposite Kepler'‘s Kampot Book shop. Open from 12.30pm to 10.30pm.

Kampot Survival Guide Creation...

This guide was written by real Kampot residents, people who live in and love Kampot. It was created using Xubuntu, Scribus, Libre Office, Inkscape, the Gimp and a broken laptop. All these applications are Open Source and freely available on the Internet.

The Collective...

Steve J ­ Director, layout, basic guide, maps, Book­ maker and After Sales Service (delivery boy). Irvin S ­ Director, Wordsmith, Food Guide, Linguistics Specialist, Senior Graphics Design Consultant, Agony Aunt, Godlike Organiser and the backbone behind to the KSG, all praise be to him. Srey Neang Keo ­ KSG Front Line Customer Relations Support Officer and Part Time Sales Exec. Dickus Bigus ­ Part­time ACE Reporter, Official KSG Foreign Correspondent, Novice Backgammon Player and still without Jugs. Yan FC ­ Junior Street Level Reporter (Probationary) and Official KSG Distorian.

Bribery...

We at the KSG adore bribes and kick backs, though we are quite happy with the occasional free coffee or beer whilst we are on our rounds. So this goes out to you advertisers, don't forget us and we won't forget you!

Advertising...

We produce new issues every three months and deliver to advertisers preferentially, so if you want copies regularly you will need to advertise.

Deadline for our next issue is 15th Oct. For further details email us at...

[email protected] NOTE. Listings were correct once, they are Contact us... not contractually binding so don't rely on them. Submissions, corrections and threats should be directed to the publisher, if you can find him, or emailed to... Facilities listed don't apply to all rooms, i.e. you won't find an AC room for $4. All places [email protected] should be able to book tickets and offer some travel advice.

s.

50 www.kampotsurvivalguide.com/

KSG Issue 39 Aug ­ Oct 2016