Münter Hitch Variations Thomas Evans, SAR3, http://sarrr.weebly.com/

Introduction Münter Hitches (MHs) are an incredibly versatile rigging tool that can be used for many functions such as rappelling, small party rescue lowering tools, releasable anchors, and others. They are one of the most useful tricks a rigger can have in their toolbox. Thankfully there are many different ways to deploy the MH, but many of these modes are rarely taught in texts or online. This document is designed to put a variety of MH modifications in one place so riggers can learn how to use them more effectively. It is recommended for intermediate or experienced rope users who already know how to tie and operate the MH efficiently. If you are just learning how to use MHs, please seek instruction and mentorship prior to using this document as a learning or study tool. The content is broken into four parts, each designed to teach different kinds of information: 1) Münter Hitch Variations, 2) Münter Hitch Locking Options, 3) Münter Hitch Tie Offs, and 4) Miscellaneous Rigging Options. Readers are encouraged to learn the content from each section, and mix and match as appropriate. For example, most of the different MH variations presented can be rigged as one way hitches by employing one of the three locking options, however, none of those combinations are taught directly. Similarly, any MH can be locked off with any of the tie offs presented. Consider each section of this document as a menu, of sorts, to be mixed and matched when performing your rigging. Use the combination that is most appropriate for your own rigging applications and conditions.

1) Münter Hitch Variations Simple Münter Hitch Strengths—Fast to tie and safety check, and for most applications has enough friction to control/lower most loads in sport or small party rescue applications. Weaknesses—Depending on the rope, carabiner, and the mass, the MH may or may not have enough friction to belay or lower the load. This can be mitigated by some variants presented later. How a MH is controlled is critical to its function. So MHs require a more informed user than other belay/lowering devices.

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Figure 1: A) Front of a MH, B) Back of a MH. Note: The load line can be positioned either next to the spine or next to the gate.

Hitch Orientation—The MH can be oriented one of two ways; A) with the load line closest to the carabiner gate/control line closer to the carabiner spine (Figure 2), and B) with the load line closest to the carabiner spine/control line closer to the carabiner gate (Figure 2). If the load line is closest to the carabiner gate it is harder for the rope to unlock the gate during use, or for the rope to be abraded by the gate locking mechanism (Figure 2b). This orientation is also easier for adding wraps to the spine if needed (see variant below). However, this construction puts more load farther from the carabiner spine (Figure 3), which can weaken D shaped/Offset D shaped carabiners considerably, a non-issue if the MH is tied with an HMS shaped carabiner. If the load line is closest to the carabiner spine, D shaped carabiners retain much more of their strength (Figure 3), and Super Münters (and variants) tied using this configuration will yield the control line exiting the hitch next to the carabiner spine. In addition, if you tie a MH and it flips during use, the load line and control strand switch sides. This means that during normal use the control line and load line will not be in optimal orientations depending on use. Ultimately, this means that you should pick the orientation of the MH on a carabiner based on your needs, carabiner shape, load, and expected use, rather than adhering to any specific rule. In reality, the optimal orientation depends on the situation. Throughout this guide MHs will be tied in both orientations; users can determine which orientation works best for them so pictures are simply examples of a way, not the way.

Figure 2: A) MHs with load line closest to the carabiner spine (right) and load line closest to the carabiner gate (left), B) MHs with control line closest to carabiner spine (right), and control line running over the carabiner gate (left) potentially unlocking and opening the gate.

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Münter Hitch In Doubled Rope Or On A Bight Strengths—A fast solution for rappelling on doubled rope (e.g., canyoneering or bailing off a climbing route), creating releasable anchors, or partner rescue. There is considerable friction in this configuration, so you are unlikely to need more friction with two ropes in service. Weaknesses—It can be Figure 3: A) D shaped carabiner with the load line closest to the tricky to tie and dress gate, a configuration that weakens the carabiner by moving the well, so the ropes run in load farther from the spine (left), and a D shaped carabiner with parallel. Because there the load line closest to the spine (right), a configuration that are two ropes, the friction weakens the carabiner less, but the control strand can unlock the may be so high that the gate, B) An offset D shaped carabiner with the load line closest to MHs cannot be the gate (left), weakening the carabiner by placing the load farther practically run in maximum friction from the carabiner spine, D) An offset D carabiner with the load configuration (ropes line closest to the spine, a configuration that is slightly stronger, parallel entering and but the control strand can unlock the gate more easily during use. exiting the hitch). This means that this configuration will likely lead to twisting the rope when the ropes are run no longer in parallel to each other to reduce friction. Feeding the rope into the hitch may help, but feeding rope is rarely a good idea because it reduces the friction during use, making an uncontrolled rappel more likely. For examples of how to use this rigging, see: Tyson and Loomis (2006:90-92, 146-149). Figure 4: A) A MH tied using two ropes, for example, during a rappel on doubled rope, B) A MH tied with a bight of rope in doubled rope/cordage, for example, during rescues as a releasable directional, or to lower a climbing partner, and while crossing knots on rappel.

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Münter Hitch With An Extra Wrap Strengths—Adding an extra wrap to the MH increases the friction considerably. The extra wrap may prevent the need for a more complicated hitch (e.g., Super Münter or Zuper Münter). As a simple solution for adding friction, this is a nice way to meet your friction needs without more complicated rigging. This modification is also quite simple to remember compared to other varieties. Weaknesses—The friction must be added before the hitch is put in service. This means that if you are on a rappel, or releasing a load and there is not enough friction, then this solution is not a viable alternative while the system is loaded. However, for those using this for many short rappels (e.g., some canyoneering), this extra wrap in the hitch might make the MH a more viable rappel device substitute or replacement if a device gets lost or dropped. For examples of how to use this rigging see: Corpo Nazionale Soccorso Alpino e Speleologico (2013:166-167). Figure 5: A) A MH with an extra wrap. Note that it is tied by wrapping the carabiner with one extra full wrap in the hitch on the opposite side of the control strand before forming the bridge of the hitch. More wraps could be added if needed, though more wraps makes a cumbersome hitch with a lot of friction that is difficult to flip.

Münter Hitch With Wraps On The Spine Strengths—This rigging variety shines when you need to add friction to your MH while it is loaded (e.g., during a rappel). It is possible to pull the rope/cord through the unlocked gate one or two times to add friction, even when fully loaded. You can add as much friction as you need to prevent catastrophe. Weaknesses—Rigging this version of the MH before loading it is reasonable. However, opening a locked carabiner while loaded is an exceptionally bad idea. As such, adding friction during use should be a last resort measure. However, as a last resort measure, this is a good alternative if you get yourself into a jam and really need more friction in a hurry! Note: For this variation to work well you need to rig the control strand against the carabiner spine. Figure 6: A) A MH with one extra friction wrap around the carabiner spine, B) A MH with two extra friction wraps around the carabiner spine. 4

Super (Monster, Double) Münter Strengths—The Super Münter provides the most friction of any of the varieties listed here and can also be tied while a MH is loaded to add more friction. It is a fantastic choice for lowering heavy (rescue) loads. Weaknesses—The Super Münter can be a pain. While MHs can flip back and forth, flipping a Super Münter is really not practical. Because there is so much friction it can be incredibly hard to pull rope through it, making it less than user friendly during raises. If you need extra friction during use, it can be tied while loaded, but that requires opening a loaded carabiner, a really bad option. However, if push comes to shove, and you need a MH to have a lot more friction quickly, this hitch is a useful option. A better choice would be the Zuper Münter.

Zuper Münter Strengths—This variant can be tied rapidly with a loaded rope, and provides considerably more friction, all without unlocking a loaded carabiner! It has the advantage of easily removing the extra friction, so has all the strengths of a Super Münter without the worst weaknesses. Weaknesses—This variant can be hard to remember and tie correctly the first time. First tie a MH, then start tying a Super Münter, then finish by clipping the rope through a second carabiner behind the first. It does require more hardware (two carabiners), which you may or may not have available.

Figure 7: To tie a Super Münter, form a MH, then tie a second one on top of the original. Note: To tie this with the load line closest to the spine, tie a MH with the load line closest to the carabiner gate then continue tying a second MH over the first.

Figure 8: How to tie a Zuper Münter. Start by tying a MH (A), then tie a Super Münter (B), and clip the tail through a second carabiner behind the first (C, D). During operation the carabiners will not be even or overlapping and the gates should face opposite directions. 5

Münter with Two Carabiners Strengths—The Münter constructed with two carabiners (Figure 9) is incredibly intuitive, easy to construct, and adds some friction to the MH without dramatically altering its construction or use. This is an excellent choice when you need just a little more friction, you have an extra carabiner, and you can rig the hitch before it is loaded. For example, after rappelling with a MH and realizing it was just not quite enough friction, add the second carabiner and move on. Weaknesses—This version of the MH requires a second carabiner, which can be a problem when equipment is at a minimum. You also have to rig it before it is loaded, meaning that if you are using the MH and realize you need more friction, this variant is not an option. However, for simply adding friction before use, this is a good option.

2) Münter Hitch Locking Options All these locking methods work by preventing the hitch from flipping if the load moves from one side of the hitch to the other. To convince yourself of this, build them and watch how the locking mechanism works. The addition of a carabiner into the MH does increases the friction in the hitch, and the second

Figure 9: Münter Hitch constructed using two carabiners to add friction.

Figure 10: MH locking options. A) Variation #1, B) Variation #2, C) Variation #3, D) Variation #4, the Remy Hitch. 6

carabiner should be a locking carabiner if possible, so that the two rope strands do not smash the carabiner gate and open it. Lastly, once loaded, it is impossible to release these without taking the load off the MH. So use with discretion!

One Way Münter Hitch Variation #1 Construction—Clip a second locking carabiner into the MH capturing the control strand and the loop of rope just behind it on the other side of the carabiner (Figure 10a). Strengths—The MH can be altered while in use, though probably not when loaded. This option is functionally more or less equivalent to options #2 and #3. Weaknesses—This version creates more friction in the MH than the other two options and it requires a second locking carabiner.

One Way Münter Hitch Variation #2 Construction—Clip a second locking carabiner into the MH capturing the load strand inside the hitch, the control strand, and the loop of rope just behind the control strand on the other side of the carabiner (Figure 10b). Strengths—The MH can be altered while in use, though probably not when loaded. This option is functionally more or less equivalent to options #1 and #3. Weaknesses—It creates more friction in the MH than option #3, but less than option #1, and it requires a second locking carabiner.

One Way Münter Hitch Variation #3 Construction—Clip a second locking carabiner into the MH capturing the control strand, and the loop of rope just behind the control strand on the other side of the carabiner. Clip the load line into the carabiner below the MH as well (Figure 10c). Strengths—The MH can be altered while in use, though probably not when loaded. This option is functionally more or less equivalent to options #1 and #2. This option produces the least friction inside the hitch than the other two options, so is favored by the author. Weaknesses—It creates more friction in the MH and it requires a second locking carabiner.

One Way Münter Hitch Variation #4-The Remy Hitch Construction—Clip a second locking carabiner into the Münter Hitch capturing the bridge of the Münter Hitch , then rotate the second carabiner up parallel to and flush with the original carabiner on which the münter hitch was tied (Figure 10d). The hitch only works well when the two carabiners are clipped side by side, similar to a Garda hitch. Another method of tying this hitch is published in Ecole Francaise de Speleologie (2013:205). Strengths—This variation works well as a means of ascending a rope without an ascender because it has considerably less internal friction than the other three options provided here. 7

Weaknesses—This variation does create more friction in the Münter Hitch, so it can be difficult to take in slack. Operation is easier with a smaller diameter rope with less friction. Like the other Münter Hitch variations, this one also requires a second locking carabiner of the same size. Relevant Literature–Ecole Francaise de Speleologie (2013:205), Meredith and Martinez (1986:62)

3) Münter Hitch Tie Offs Note: Most of these lock offs can be made more secure by clipping a carabiner to the final bight and connecting it to the rope or the MH carabiner. Use this modification if desired, but it is not pictured for clarity and simplicity in the pictures.

Münter Mule Strengths—This is probably the most common method of quickly locking off a MH, so more users will recognize it during use, and can safety check it easily (Figure 11). It is fast, easy, and provides considerable security. The mule hitch is easier to release than a half hitch, so it is preferable to just a half hitch. Weaknesses—Without a safety knot, the mule hitch can loosen and slip. Consequently, this is okay for quickly locking a load but there needs to be some additional knot or hitch to secure it in place. In addition, many people do not tie the mule hitch correctly; they tie a half hitch rather than a correctly tied mule hitch. The mule hitch incorporates a loop the tie off bight slides through, while the half hitch does not.

Figure 11: Münter Mule soft lock off. A backup knot is needed to make this a full lock off.

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Münter Mule + Half Hitch Strengths—One of the fastest and easiest full lock offs of the MH, just behind two half hitches (below). It uses the mule hitch, which is easier to unload than a half hitch, and is finished with a simple, easy half hitch. Weaknesses—The final half hitch is not as secure as tying a full stopper knot like an overhand. In addition, many people do not tie the mule hitch correctly rather they tie a half hitch rather than a correctly tied mule hitch.

Figure 12: How to tie the Münter Mule Half Hitch tie off. Tie a MH (A), and continue with a mule hitch (B-E). Finish with a half hitch tied using the bight formed by the mule hitch (F). Cinch the half hitch down tight against the mule hitch so there is no slack.

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Münter Mule + Overhand Strengths—Probably the most common full lock off of a MH, with an easy to release mule hitch, and a fully tied off overhand knot. When tied correctly, dressed, and set, this hitch is secure and will not come undone. Weaknesses—It takes more rope to tie an overhand knot than a half hitch. This is a minor problem; there are few drawbacks to this tie off! The only exception is if users forget the münter mule; untying the overhand knot when the system is under load can be impossibly difficult and could lead to an uncontrolled release of the load if the user is not careful.

Figure 13: A Münter Mule Overhand. Tie a Münter Mule then tie an overhand knot around the standing line using the bight formed by the mule hitch. Note that the overhand knot is cinched up tight against the mule hitch, so when loaded, little rope can slip through the hitch.

Münter + Two Half Hitches Strengths—Two half hitches are incredibly easy to remember, require very little rope, and can be safety checked easily. Weaknesses—Because this is not the most common lock off method, many people may take a little while to safety check it. In addition, half hitches are not as secure as overhand knots, so they can slowly come loose. Adding a carabiner to the final bight and clipping it to the rope or anchor would make this configuration more secure.

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Figure 14: A Münter and Two Half Hitches. Start by tying a MH (A), add a half hitch on a bight (B-C), and finish with a second half hitch on a bight (D-E).

Münter Halter Hitch Strengths—The halter hitch is a fast way to lock off a MH, and it requires little rope. Weaknesses—Many rope users do not know the halter hitch, so it may be difficult for others to safety check this hitch. It is also less secure than tying an overhand knot, so it can come loose. For examples of how to use this rigging see: Tyson and Loomis (2006:49).

Figure 15: To tie a halter hitch, tie a MH (A), a mule hitch (B-D), then slip a bight of rope through the loop formed by the mule hitch (E), and set the hitch tightly (F).

Münter Half Hitch + Overhand Strengths—Half hitches and overhand knots are both simple to remember and easy to tie. So this is a complete lock off option that most users can remember easily. More importantly, many users accidentally tie this lock off rather than the Münter Mule Overhand. So this is in common use even if many users are not aware they are using it! A Münter Half Hitch + Overhand is tied using a half hitch, rather than a mule hitch which incorporates a loop of rope the bight is passed through (Figure 11b,c), whereas a half hitch does not included a loop of rope (Figure 16b).

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Weaknesses—The half hitch is harder to release than a mule hitch, which can be mitigated by releasing the half hitch with your dominant hand and grasping the MH with your other gloved hand to create more friction.

Figure 16: How to tie the Münter Half Hitch Overhand. Tie a MH (A), a half hitch using a bight of rope (B-C), and finish with an overhand knot tied around the standing line constructed with the loop of rope formed by the half hitch (D).

Münter + Slip Overhand Strengths—This is an incredibly fast hard lock off for a MH that requires little rope. Weaknesses—Without a mule or half hitch it harder to untie the overhand knot while controlling the load easily. This is a big drawback, however the lock off is safe, just more complicated when unloading. For examples of how to use this rigging see: Brown (2000:174).

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Figure 17: How to tie the Münter Slip Overhand. Tie a MH and form a bight of rope (A), tie an overhand knot around the standing line using the bight of rope (B). Cinch it down so it is tight against the MH.

Super Münter Tie Off To Tie—Tie whatever MH you want, then start tying a Super Münter. Rather than finish the full Super Münter, pull a bight of rope through the carabiner to finish the Super Münter, and tie off the bight however you want (any of the above tie offs).

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Strengths—This tie off produces much more friction in the hitch than the other variants, which means it is easier to unlock and lower heavier loads. So this variant is a good alternative for heavier loads (e.g., rescue loads or heavy climbers on a new small diameter rope). Weaknesses—For those who have a hard time remembering the Super Münter, this will be a difficult tie off. In addition, this method requires much more rope than the others. When rope is in short supply this may not be the right method to use.

Figure 18: How to tie a Super Münter tie off. Tie a MH (A), then start tying a Super Münter (B). Rather than opening the carabiner gate, pass a bight of rope through the carabiner (C), then tie any lock off desired (D,E, two half hitches are shown).

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4) Miscellaneous Rigging Options Friction Hitch And A Münter Hitch In A Single Rope Strengths—Many recreational rope users carry lengths of 7 or 8mm cord they can use to make anchors, handlines, etc. This material can be used to tie a friction hitch on a rope connected to a locked off MH. This configuration allows the user to lower a loaded rope whenever necessary, an incredibly handy skill during partner rescues! Using the end of the cord to tie a friction hitch gives you the full length of the cord to lower the load, rather than having half the length when using cord in a loop. Weaknesses—Users have to know how to tie friction hitches in the end of the rope. Ascender knots, Blake’s Hitches, or Tautline Hitches all require a user who knows how to tie them. So this technique requires a user who knows more knot craft than other methods. With only one strand of cord forming the MH, the friction in the hitch is considerably less, so consider adding friction if you are lowering a heavy load (see any of the methods above).

Figure 19: Examples of friction hitches coupled with MH. A) MH with an Ascender knot, B) MH and a Blake’s Hitch, C) MH and a Tautline Hitch.

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Friction Hitch And A Münter Hitch In Doubled Rope Strengths—Doubling up the cord or rope used makes it really fast to tie friction hitches like a prusik or a Klemheist, then rig a MH with more than enough friction to handle a heavy load. Weaknesses—Because the rope or cord is doubled the operator can lower the load only half the total length of the cord. This can be an enormous drawback when you need to lower long distances. However, during a partner rescue it is unlikely you would need to lower someone more than a few feet to transition their mass to a rope or another device.

Figure 20: Examples of friction hitches coupled with MHs constructed from a loop of cord or rope. A) Prusik tied with a loop of cord running to a MH constructed with doubled rope. B) Klemheist knot running to a MH built with doubled rope.

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Münter Mariner + Overhand Strengths—A simple way to create a load-releasing hitch (LRH) with more than enough friction to control even the heaviest of loads in a lower or as a releasable directional. Most riggers can remember how to tie this LRH, unlike more complicated versions like the Radium Load Release Hitch (below). Weaknesses—Mariner hitches take a lot of material to create, and because they create massive friction they take quite a bit of massaging to lower with them. This means these hitches are slow during a lower, but you will certainly have control!

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Figure 21: How to tie the Münter Mariner Overhand. Form a bight in the middle of the rope, tie a MH with the doubled rope (A), wrap the tail around the standing line (B), pull the tail through the original bight (C), tie an overhand knot around the doubled rope. Remove slack.

Radium Load Release Hitch (RLRH) How To Tie—You will need two carabiners and a piece of cord or rope (Figure 22a). It will be easier to tie with one HMS carabiner with 8mm supple accessory cord. Connect one end of the rope to a carabiner; this is commonly done with a figure 8, however depicted here is a scaffold knot, because it is more rope efficient (Figure 22b). Run the rope up and into the other carabiner (HMS preferred, Figure 22c), then back down to the original carabiner (Figure 22d). Run the rope back up to the second carabiner and tie a MH (Figure 22e-g). Tie off the MH with a mule hitch (Figure 22h,i), and an overhand (Figure 22j,k). Dress and set the hitch with as little slack as possible (Figure 22l). The tail can be bagged or daisy chained (Figure 22m). If you daisy chain, start the chain at the rope tail and move toward the hitch. Style Points—The shorter the hitch the farther it can lower, though it is harder to safety check. So if you are a confident RLRH user, tie the hitch with minimal slack. When rigging with the hitch, ensure the MH side of the hitch is connected to the anchor. This will prevent you from having to follow the hitch closer to the edge when it is deployed! Strengths—This LRH has enough friction to control any load you may need to lower, and can be operated quickly to lower a load. It is commonly tied with 8mm cord, but can also be tied with smaller diameter ropes easily. Weaknesses—This LRH is complicated and many users find it difficult to remember how to tie it. Moreover, this LRH includes a small mechanical advantage system, which means the amount of rope/cord consumed during a lower can be substantial. Lastly, it is easy to unintentionally install upside down on the rigging, with the MH carabiner slowly moving away from the operator making it difficult to operate.

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Figure 22: How to tie a Radium Load Release Hitch. 18

Münter Hitch And A Rescue Spider Uses—During a partner rescue, particularly in climbing or other environment in which the direction of transport will be down, it can be advantageous to connect the rescuer to the patient. Connecting to a patient can be accomplished by tying a rescue spider, a knot in cord that creates two loops, a short loop for the rescuer, and a longer loop for the patient. The short loop keeps the rescuer higher and suspends the patient off to the side, below the rescuer, so it is easier to maneuver them during a tandem rappel. The remaining rope/cord tails can be used to tie a MH. This gives the rescuer the ability to rappel on an adjustable length spider, which facilitates rappelling with a load, and transferring the combined load between anchors and rappel ropes when rescuing off multi-pitch routes. Details of use are beyond the scope of this article, but details can be found in Tyson and Loomis (2006). Strengths—Easy to tie, inspect, and use with the gear commonly carried by climbers. So this is an effective technique users could potentially use in the field when something bad occurs and necessitates a rescue. Weaknesses—There are many ways to transfer loads, like counterbalances, short haul systems, etc. This method forces the rescuer to commit to one load transfer method for most of the rescue. For some environments, particularly in climbing, this is not much of a problem (you are almost always going down!). However, for some environments (e.g., caving) this may be suboptimal. In addition, for many climbers they are using their cord to create the anchors they will need to rappel to the ground. It may be more important to keep the cord available to make anchors than it is to use it to form a rescue spider. It entirely depends on the conditions and equipment available.

Literature Cited Brown, Michael, 2000, Engineering Practical Rope Rescue Systems, Delmar, Thomson Learning Corpo Nazionale Soccorso Alpino e Speleologico, 2103, Sucuola Nazionale Tecnici Soccorso in Forra, 1st Edition, Direzione Corpo Nazionale Soccorso Alpino e Speleologico Ecole Francaise de Speleologie, 2013, Caving Technical Guide, English Edition, Federation Francaise de Speleologie, France Element Rescue, 2015, Element Rescue Knot Series – One Way Munter, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AaP06hdQQNI Element Rescue, 2015, Element Rescue Knot Series – Munter 1 5, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svxsKB_4xJE Meredith, M., and Martinez, D., 1986. Vertical Caving, Second Edition, Lyon Equipment, Dent, United Kingdom Tyson, Andy, Loomis, Molly, 2006, Climbing Self-Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations, The Mountaineers Books, Seattle

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Figure 23: Variations in rescue spider construction using three double loop knots. A) Double overhand, B) Double figure 8 (bunny ear knot), and C) Double Bowline. The double overhand knot (A) is featured in Tyson and Loomis (2006:90-92) and is an excellent knot for this application. When loaded the overhand may roll, but not far, however there are two loops formed when tying a double overhand so this knot is not rope efficient, though each loop is redundant (if any one strand breaks, the others will hold). The double figure 8 (B) is more rope efficient because each limb is comprised of a single loop. The drawback to the double figure 8 knot is that the two loops are not redundant; if one loop breaks one end can slip through the knot and the other loop could fail. In addition, this knot does require some dressing to make the limbs the right length. The double bowline (C) is easy to tie, requires the least rope, and adjusting the limb lengths on the rescue spider is easy. Unfortunately this spider creates limbs that are not redundant, like the figure 8. However, the double bowline is the most rope efficient spider, and is incredibly fast to tie. All three spider types are easy to tie, and each have their advantages. Try each to determine which is most desirable given your rigging conditions.

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