Tiko Cheat Sheet Cheat Sheet Version: February 18, 2017, Al Jimenez, for Tiko v1.24 & v1.25, Source Link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B88AS7oeDcOfa2NPcXlXUGFtaDA/ view My Tiko: Batch #3 @ v1.25, using GEM & SmartFox filament; Modifications: grease & teflon tape. No Motor Backlash Fix yet. I am new to 3D Printing, as such I felt like I needed a cheat sheet for a quick reference when tweaking my printer settings. I leveraged info from many places on this community forum and put this together and decided to share it here. On the Tiko, from what I have already learned using it I have already gotten my moneyʼs worth so far. If I tried to find a detailed class to teach me what I have already learned, it would have cost me more then the money I have spent on Tiko. Good luck to you, I hope you get as much out of it as I have. TIKOʼS LIGHTS: ● Breathing light - a gentle glow - Tiko is waiting to connect. ● Solid light - Tiko is connected. ● SOS Light - three short then three long blinks - Error - Error code is attached to Tiko Wi-Fi name. ● Brightening - Lights brighten in steps - Automatically trying to connect to Tiko servers. ● Dimming - Lights dim in steps - Tiko is downloading an update. SETTINGS: Manual Controls: (See: What are the Manual Controls?: https://tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/ articles/228371728-What-are-the-Manual-Controls-)

LED Brightness: Allows you to dim or brighten the LED lights inside of your Tiko. Load Filament: Click ‘Load Filamentʼ to initiate the loading process.  For more information, visit How to Load Filament Unload Filament: Click ‘Unload Filamentʼ to start the unloading process. NOTE: Load & Unload Filament settings will also allow for “further” filament extrusion and retraction after having selected them once before. You can then specify the amount of filament to extrude/retract. Print Settings: (See: Print Settings Explained: https://tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/ 228206487-Print-Settings-Explained)

Temperature: The default temperature setting for Tiko is currently set to 200°C, and allows for a minimum temperature of 180°C and a maximum temperature of 240°C.  PLA typically prints in the range of 180°C to 220°C.  You can try different temperatures to see how they affect your print.  By trying the same print at different temperatures, you can find an ideal temperature setting for your filament. Layer Thickness: Layer Thickness refers to the actual thickness of each layer your Tiko will print. The lower the thickness, the better the quality of the print.  Smaller layers will mean they are less visible, leading to a smoother looking print.  Tiko 3D can print from a minimum layer thickness of 0.05mm (50µm = 50 microns) and a maximum layer thickness of 0.20mm (200µm = 200 microns). NOTE: Layer height: As a general rule of thumb, you want to make sure that the layer height you select is 20% smaller than your nozzle diameter. For example, if you have a 0.4mm nozzle, you canʼt go too far past a layer height of 0.32mm, or each layer of plastic will not be able to properly bond to the layer beneath it. So if you notice that your prints are separating and the layers are not sticking together, the first thing you should check is your layer height compared to the size of your nozzle. Try reducing the layer height to see if it helps the layers bond together better. Infill Density: Infill Density refers to the actual amount of filament inside the print. An infill density of 15% would be used for a hollow/vase object, whereas an object that may require strength would be better suited to a higher infill density.  The higher the density, the more filament inside the print.  Infill serves as support for objects.  You can set Infill Density from 15% (hollow) to 100% (completely solid). TBD (This was removed, may go back in):

Support Structures: The WIT allows you to turn on or off Support Structures.  Currently, turning this on means that both support structures and rafts are turned on.  Support structures are created to help support the object as it prints, and then can be removed afterward.  A raft can be thought of as a bed for an object.  The raft aids in bed adhesion, as well as provides some support for objects with small base dimensions.  Like support structures, the raft is designed to be removed once the print is complete. ADVANCED MENU: (NOTE: credit for the following on forum.tiko3d.com by dspeers & Pratyeka)

NOTE: this is a good read before using: Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide | Simplify3D Software: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-qualitytroubleshooting/#layer-shifting-or-misalignment General Auto-level Offset - In general, if you notice that your nozzle is a bit too close or too high from the base after auto-calibration, you can adjust AutoLevel Offset to help.  Try a value like 0.2mm if your nozzle is a bit too low, and 0.4-0.6mm if it's

really digging into your base.  If your nozzle is too high, try -0.2 to -0.5mm to lower it. Flow Multiplier - An adjustment to the flow rate of filament extruded from the hot end. 1.00 = 100%, normal. (Reduce by .02 at a time rather than larger increments) Number of Shells - How many solid layers on an external surface of the print Surface Layers - How many solid layers on the top and bottom of the part

Seam Control Coast Length - Distance to travel without extruding at the end of a movement (reduces oozing at the seam) Minimum Layer Time - If a layer takes less than this amount of time to print, Tiko will pause to allow the layer to cool before moving on to the next layer (prevents blobbing) Wipe Length - Wipes the nozzle at the end of a loop; this is the distance used for wiping NOTE: The "seam" is where the nozzle begins at each layer. If the nozzle starts at the same point in the loop for each layer, and if there's any blobbing or oozing at all, then you'll end up with a visible seam like a zipper all along the height of the model. There are various strategies to address this, such as randomizing the start point, or "coasting" at the end of the loop (nozzle movement without extrusion). Speeds Travel Speed - The overall speed of nozzle movement. 50 mm/s equates to 1800 mm/min. Faster speeds generally imply lower quality. Infill Speed - The speed of nozzle movement while laying down infill. 20 mm/s == 1200 mm/min Interior Shell Speed - The speed of the nozzle movement while laying down an interior shell layer. Middle Shell Speed - The speed of the nozzle movement while laying down an middle shell layer. Exterior Shell Speed - The speed of the nozzle movement while laying down an exterior shell layer. Retraction Z-Hop Height - The vertical distance the nozzle moves up when retracting; this allows the nozzle to move without impacting layers below it Retraction Length - How much filament is reversed by the extruder motor (to reduce oozing from the nozzle) Unretraction Length - How much filament is advanced when preparing to extrude after a retraction Retraction Speed - How fast the filament is retracted

Unretraction Speed - How fast the filament is advanced when preparing to extrude after a retraction Recent additions to Advanced Menu as of v1.25: ● Raft Gap Height - is the gap between the raft and the first layer. The default is set to 0.54 mm WIT SETTINGS: ● The WIT settings can be saved using the Advanced menu by selecting “Download Settings”. The resultant file is a file name “option_settings.json” which is a text file containing the “current” settings. Below is the default settings of the WIT in that file format: {   "infillPercent": 25,   "layerThickness": 0.2,   "temperature": 210,   "raftEnable": 1,   "supportsEnable": 0,   "autolevelOffset": 0,   "flowPercentage": 1,   "minLayerTime": 15,   "coastLength": 2.5,   "shells": 3,   "surfaceLayers": 5,   "wipeLength": 5,   "retractLift": 1,   "retractLength": 4,   "unretractLength": 3.9,   "retractSpeed": 15,   "unretractSpeed": 15,   "travelSpeed": 50,   "shellsInsideSpeed": 20,   "shellsMiddleSpeed": 20,   "shellsOuterSpeed": 8,   "infillSpeed": 20,   "raftGapHeight": 0.54 } MY WIT SETTINGS SUGGESTIONS & BEST PRACTICES: ● DEFAULT SETTINGS: I always print with default settings then adjust the following for best results depending on the type of object: NOTE: I have added grease to the stepper motor rails and teflon tape to the stepper motor grips to help with layer shifting issues and better print quality.

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See: Easy Fix: Add grease and add teflon tape as documented in: : https:// forum.tiko3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=1195&start=10 ○ Temperature: set lower for more detail and smaller objects, higher for less detailed and larger block/solid objects ○ Layer Thickness set 0.20 or lower for detailed and smaller objects, 0.30 and higher for larger block/solid objects ○ Travel Speed = slower for smaller and detailed objects, faster for larger block/solid objects ○ Tweaking anything else is risky and I first try on Demo object or small calibration object when changing others. ○ CAUTION: Your milage may vary. Everyoneʼs Tiko seems to be different. Straying too far from default values may cause failures unless you experiment with settings in Advanced Menu until firmware stabilizes. ● Pre-heating the nozzle: I have found that pre-heating the nozzle once or twice before a print helps me get better results. Especially at the beginning of the day (or session). NOTE: It would be nice to have a preheat function with a set timer 0~20 minutes (currently its only 60s). ● Remove Filament: I always remove filament at the end of the day or session so as not to power down with filament in the bowden tubes for an extended period of time (pre-heat the nozzle if itʼs been sitting in there for a while). This may not apply to all filaments but has been an issue with filaments breaking if left in place. ● Stuck filament or no filament extruding: first try to heat up the nozzle 2 or 3 times, then extrude 100-200 mm at 5mm/s of filament using the submenu under Load Filament after filament is already loaded. If this does not resolve the issue, then heat the nozzle again, unload filament and then retract more filament, again 100-200mm using the Unload Filament submenu. Then try to reload filament and test. Do this before attempting to disassemble the extruder and liquefier. MANUAL CALIBRATION: ● NOTE: Auto calibration is questionable with mixed results by members of the forum and has caused indentions on the bed surface. ● Follow the on screen prompts, place the nozzle just above the bed surface (thickness of a piece of paper or less), do this at all three calibration points and then proceed with the print. ● Watch the skirt closely. It gives the most valuable info on your calibration early in the print process. Abort the print if the skirt is not uniform, make a note of where the high or low point is in relation to the three calibration points and adjust from there. ● Note that after your initial calibration, on the subsequent calibration TIKO goes to that initial point on the first "down" command. From there, make one or two click adjustments only on the corners that need it.

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You can also use a bright flashlight. I lay it flat so the beam is parallel to the build plate, then start manual calibration and aim the light at the point where it will touch. Lower the effector and watch the shadow of the extruder tip. When the shadow tip touches the real tip, move to the next point.

TIKO GENERAL DEFINITIONS & DESIGNATIONS: ● “Bowden" tubes: the tubes used to guide the filament to the nozzle for printing. There are two bowden tubes in the Tiko, the 1st one leading to the extruder motor and the 2nd one coming out of the extruder motor. ● Extruder: a term used to reference the extruder motor which drives the filament down the second bowden tube to the nozzle. ● Liquefier: a term used to reference the assembly that includes second bowden tube and nozzle assembly. ● Slicer - Tiko prints in layers and a “slicer” is software used to cut an object into flat layers that can be printed one at a time. The output of a slicer is Gcode that controls the path, speed, and temperature of the printer. Tiko uses its own slicer when you upload an STL file or you can drop a G-code file on its interface when you use a third party slicer. ● “STL” file format that represents a 3D object. Describes the surface as a series of triangles. File has no units (i.e. 1 unit could be 1mm or 1″ (Working with File Types | Simplify3D Software: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/ articles/working-with-file-types/) ● Motor Locations and Designations: The circuit board for the Tiko has labels designating the motors as Alpha, Beta, and Gamma. The motor to the left as you're facing the printer, with the TIKO logo facing you, is Alpha. The motor in the back, by the power connector, is Beta, and the motor to the right of the TIKO logo is Gamma. At least we can start referring to them in the same terminology as support probably does. Reference Diagram:

The two Bowden tubes (Filament Feeding Tube & black sleeved liquefier tube on the other side of the extruder assembly) both have a “shark fin” twist lock to lock them in place. Members on the forum have reported that these often fall out. To lock these in place use the “shark fin” to push the tube into place and turn the “shark fin” to lock into place. It only locks in one direction. They seem to be spring loaded and will not stay unless you lock them. Test it by tugging on the tube afterwards.

TIKO USERʼS MODIFICATIONS: ● Easy Fix: Add grease and add teflon tape as documented in: http:// forum.tiko3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=1008 & https://forum.tiko3d.com/ viewtopic.php?f=24&t=1195&start=10 ● Motor Backlash Fix: http://forum.tiko3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=1202 ● Motor Backlash Fix #2: https://forum.tiko3d.com/viewtopic.php? p=7743#p7743

Simple fix for layer shift, uneven layers, erratic prints, etc...: http:// forum.tiko3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=1008 ● Extruder relocation modification: https://forum.tiko3d.com/viewtopic.php? f=23&t=1516&p=7594#p7594 ● Connecting rod replacement: https://forum.tiko3d.com/viewtopic.php? f=23&t=1545&p=7879#p7879 ●

TIKO SUPPORT NOTES: ● Inside Your Tiko: https://tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/228921168Inside-Your-Tiko ● Error Codes: https://tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/235266607-ErrorCodes ● Supported Filament Materials: https://tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/ articles/228096147-Supported-Filament-Materials ● How Much does Filament Cost?: https://tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/ articles/228268228-How-Much-does-Filament-Cost● How Should I Store My Filament?: https://tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/

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articles/228218668-How-Should-I-Store-My-FilamentHow does the filament feed work? : https://tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/ articles/228096307-How-does-the-filament-feed-work● How to Load Filament: https://tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/ 228218548-How-to-Load-Filament ●

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My Filament isnʼt Extruding: https://tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/ 231480167-My-Filament-isn-t-Extruding Filament is Jammed in the Extruder: https://tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/ articles/228219108-Filament-is-Jammed-in-the-Extruder Filament is Jammed in the Liquefier: https://tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/ articles/228219188-Filament-is-Jammed-in-the-Liquifier Additional notes: FYI - Regarding liquefier jams and Tiko's procedure for clearing them: https://forum.tiko3d.com/viewtopic.php?p=6056#p6056 Filament is Turning into a Ball at the End of the Nozzle: https:// tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/228218588-Filament-is-Turning-intoa-Ball-at-the-End-of-the-Nozzle Filament is Stuck to the Print Head: https://tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/ articles/228218628-Filament-is-Stuck-to-the-Print-Head Motor Carriage - Motor is Hitting the Filament Tray: https:// tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/230152207-Motor-Carriage-Motor-isHitting-the-Filament-Tray Insert Your SD Card: https://tiko3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/ 115001328487 Tiko Support Recovery Page (recovery.html) file: https://forum.tiko3d.com/ viewtopic.php?f=24&t=1088 - this is used to get more options then the default recovery (includes: Add/Remove Network Profiles, Collect Logs (downloads a .txt file), Force Update TAF (force update firmware), Recover WIT, Format SD Card, Heater Recalibration) NOTE: this does not solve the Wifi issues, hotspot security or cloud printing, those are still TBD until future software updates. Recalibrate Heater - This is done via the recovery page (recovery.html) WARNING! DO NOT click this if your heater already functions properly! This will perform an automatic heater calibration. An improper heater calibration can render Tiko useless! Before performing the calibration, make sure your heater has had at least one hour to cool to ensure it is at room temperature. See the end of this document for more troubleshooting links

MY TOP TIPS FROM TIKO COMMUNITY FORUM: ● Canʼt connect with the Tiko: Problem: Cannot connect to Tiko wifi: https:// forum.tiko3d.com/viewtopic.php?p=7607#p7607 & Tiko Wifi: https:// forum.tiko3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=910&p=5975#p5975 and/or [WIFI ISSUES] Chrome Extension: https://forum.tiko3d.com/viewtopic.php?

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p=5314#p5314 When filament wonʼt extrude disconnect & check the 1st Bowden tube and the extruder motor. Donʼt over-tighten the big screw on the filament motor when you re-install it. (See link: Filament is Jammed in the Extruder). ● If they are ok then disassemble & check Liquefier (See link: Filament is Jammed in the Liquefier). NOTE: I used a hypodermic needle to clear the nozzle that was clogged. I used a lighter to heat the nozzle while doing this. I felt it clear with the needle, so this worked for me. I now unload filament every time I stop using the printer at the end of the day or for long periods. ● If your filament is chittering, loosen the big screw on the filament motor just a bit and test. ● Extruder motor insertion: if the PCB under the plastic cover is not lined up correctly then the extruder motor will not insert properly no matter how hard you push and turn clockwise. If the PCB and cover seem very loose then remove all connectors and plastic cover and then line up PCB. Look for tab on body and slot on PCB. Once these are lined up and in place then you can replace plastic cover and insert motor and re-assemble. NOTE: the PCB & plastic cover are still loose, the extruder motor is what holds them in place once it is turned and locked in place. ●

IMPORTANT UPDATE LINKS: ● Kickstarter Tiko status comments: https://www.kickstarter.com/profile/ tiko3d/comments ● Tiko Community Forum: https://forum.tiko3d.com ● Support Site: http://support.tiko3d.com ● Tiko FAQ: http://support.tiko3d.com/faq#null ● WIT Demo site: demo.tiko3d.com NOTE: this is very handy for me, I use it to determine the time and how much filament for an object when I am not connected to my printer. ● Tiko Part 2: First Prints and Adjusting the Extruder Tension - Thrinter: http:// thrinter.com/tiko-part-2-first-prints-and-adjusting-the-extruder-tension/ (gcode example to extrude filament) 3D PRINT REFERENCES: ● Makers Guide to 30 Types of 3D Printer Filament: https://all3dp.com/ best-3d-printer-filament-types-pla-abs-pet-exotic-wood-metal/ ● Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/ print-quality-troubleshooting/#layer-shifting-or-misalignment ● Troubleshooting 3D prints: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/ troubleshooting/3d-prints ● 20 Best 3D Printing Software Tools (Most are Free): https://all3dp.com/ best-3d-printing-software-tools/ ● Modeling Software: https://www.shapeways.com/creator/tools/

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Easy 3D Printing: https://www.instructables.com/class/Easy-3D-Printing/

GENERAL 3D PRINTING TECHNOLOGIES: ● FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) - Consumer grade process - prototyping. FDM printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point and then extruded, layer by layer, to create a three dimensional object. (NOTE: Fused Deposition Modeling: Most Common 3D Printing Method: http:// www.livescience.com/39810-fused-deposition-modeling.html) ● SLS (Selective laser sintering) - commercial grade process - production (high strength plastic, degrades and discolors over time, also shrinkage, its a powder). SLS is an additive manufacturing (AM) technique that uses a laser as the power source to sinter powdered material (typically metal), aiming the laser automatically at points in space defined by a 3D model, binding the material together to create a solid structure. ($100,000+) ● SLA (Stereolithography) - commercial grade process - liquid batch of UV sensitive resin. Brittle, sun sensitive. Expensive small parts typically. SLA is a form of 3-D printing technology used for creating models, prototypes, patterns, and production parts in a layer by layer fashion using photopolymerization, a process by which light causes chains of molecules to link together, forming polymers.[1] Those polymers then make up the body of a three-dimensional solid. ● DELTA INFO: How are delta movements calculated?: http:// 3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/631/how-are-delta-movementscalculated THIS INFORMATION WAS ALSO HELPFUL TO ME: Extrusion Script: (NOTE: credit for the following: by thrinter, http://thrinter.com/): Save the below to a file with the extension .gcode and then drop this on the WIT to use. See: http://thrinter.com/tiko-part-2-first-prints-and-adjusting-the-extrudertension/ for more information. G28 ; home M109 S200 ; turn on nozzle heater and wait G1 Z80 F900 ; move down a bit G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length G1 E30 F60 ; extrude the filament G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length M104 S0 ; turn off nozzle heater G28 ; home ; make sure the previous line ends with a newline NOTE: the same can be done with the WIT by clicking on Load Filament when

filament is already loaded, and you can specify how much filament to extrude. The reverse is true, after unloading filament you can try to retract filament that may be in the bowden tubes and get the option of specifying how much filament to unload “further”. This will allow you to load and unload additional filament. The script above is a discreet way of doing the same thing. FILAMENTS: ● The spool chamber holds a 165 mm, 1-kilogram spool of filament. (filament size(1.75mm) with its spool size (165mm) ) ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

PLA (for prototyping &/or ornamental objects) ABS (production &/or sturdier objects) HIPS (food & drug use) Nylon (much stronger, but harder to use, calibrate, store and support) and all others (which basically means youʼre free to experiment). NOTE: Good note from a user on the community forum: “The GEM PLA introduces additional problems. Partly it's lower quality filament, partly it's that translucent filaments seem to be more tricky in general. However, using a different filament brings its own problem: almost no other filament spools fit the Tiko spool well; smaller ones can roll around inside but might catch on the feed tube; larger spools will need a spool holder. I strongly recommend a spool holder with bearings, but you're going to have to fabricate something, or print parts, to get a holder.” (https:// forum.tiko3d.com/viewtopic.php?p=6423#p6423)

PLA metrics ● Density: 1.25 g/cm^3. ● Volume: 0.80 cm^3/g or 800 cm^3/kg. ● 1.75 mm filament length for 1 kg spool: ~ 330 meters / ~ 1080 feet. ABS metrics ● Density: 1.04 g/cm^3 ● Volume: 0.96 cm^3/g or 960 cm^3/kg ● 1.75 mm filament length for 1 kg spool: ~ 400 meters / ~ 1310 feet Print area: Triangular w/rounded corners 4.9" diameter cylinder max 4.9" max height for all prints

Nozzle - The nozzle radius is 0.5 mm.  Layer resolution of 50-250 microns. Print speed 30 mm/sec - The Tiko can print layers as thin as 50 microns up to 250 microns (lower number is better resolution). In terms of printing small objects, the Tiko can print details as small as 1mm (though this is a bit on the small side and may be tough to do as the nozzle is 0.5mm in diameter). There is a tolerance (or accuracy) of about ± 0.2mm, meaning that it may print up to 0.2mm one way or the other in the xy direction of a print. details: tolerance of about +- 0.2mm in xy direction; can print features as small as 1mm. Max temperature is 250C. Maximum print size is 138.3 cubic inches. We don't have an X, Y, Z dimensions to provide because Tiko is not a Cartesian printer. MORE INFO: This Downloadable Cheat Sheet ● My Tiko appears damaged/the clear part broke off ● My Tiko appears damaged/one or more motors is hanging loose ● How to connect to Tiko ● My Tiko is on but I can't connect to it ● "Still working" message ● Wifi W.T.F. (subtitled: How to really break your Tiko) ● Page not found ● The light is flashing: will it explode? (subtitled: You're about to rip the gold

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cable) The Tiko network name has an error at the end Cloud printing doesn't work.-No, it doesn't. Not yet. I can't load the filament-Yes you can. Push harder. No, really. Some straight talk about GEM filament-it's not very good. Spool sizes for 3rd party filaments-Tiko does not use a standard size filament spool. In fact, it is quite rare. Filament loaded, now what? Sample print suggestions-the built-in demo object, Benchy, Marvin printing in the air/layer shifting/rising (subtitled: how handy are you?) printing off-center/hitting the wall "printing" but no filament coming out printing but filament not "sticking" to bed blobs/globs