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NY Fashion Week Part I :: An EDGE Exclusive (Continued from Page 1) by PJ Gach

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Duckie Brown opted for "How Ducky Can You Get?" as the name of their show, and in high winter, you’ll be just ducky in their expertly tailored coats. Pick a gorgeous navy cashmere long tailored anorak, a black rubber trench coat, or a seriously yummy black Sherpa jacket with French knots and beading. Hats with a huge pom-pom (not cheerleader sized thank god), sat on top, worn with matching wide scarves.

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Punches of hunter orange bounced through the collection; a stand-out suit was a tweed blazer with orange jersey panels matched with gray wax trousers, dark green plaid shirt, orange suede gloves, and a dark brown cashmere blanket scarf with French knot swirls. Silhouettes were no-nonsense, strong and masculine. Seriously swoony.

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Utilitarian and luxurious; brave deep dark winter bundled up in a thinking man’s ruggedly sexy

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Rather than a big show, Zang Toi held an intimate presentation at his atelier on 57th Street. The designer, wearing a black tee, black pleated mini, tights and lace up shoes, adjusted the models’ clothing as they walked around the room, showed off the intricate detail work of his creations, and laughed when he overheard people talking about the stunning ball gowns and marveling over the softness of a cashmere coat. While it was impossible not to exclaim, "Oh my god, look at the lace detailing on that ball skirt," it was a bit unnerving, in a good way, when a model or Mr. Toi added their own comments. Standing so close to the clothing, one could see the patina of the fabric, the placement of detailing, and actually touch the clothes. Toi’s palette for fall was like a Turner painting: swirly shades of gray mixed with midnight black and early morning white.

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Stoned Cherrie’s brilliant day wear Arise, an African fashion magazine, produced a collaborative show, This Day/Arise Magazine: African Fashion Collection. Designers XULY.Bet, Mom, Tiffany Amber and Stoned Cherrie all presented their lines for their American debuts. The show included everything from sleek day looks to latex looking clubwear; all to the sounds of Grace Jones. The biggest surprise was actually seeing Miss Jones, in all her pantheresque glory, stalk down the runway.

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When Miss Jones appeared, the entire audience- as if one animal- gasped, then applauded, screamed, and spontaneously launched into a standing ovation. It’s been said that she’s refused to step on American shores for about 20 years, yet here she was sharing the runway with Tyson Beckford and Alek Wek!

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Standout looks from the show included Tiffany Amber’s hand beaded Ankara trench with belt, Mom’s multi-animal print silk cashmere tank dress, and Stoned Cherrie’s chiffon bowed shirt worn with a high waisted patchwork skirt.

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AAU’s Scott McFarland’s knitted menswear

David Foucher Jeanne Harnois

It seems like the Academy Art University in San Francisco is the last bastion for avant garde expression. Here, fashion and fabric design students get to flex their creative muscles, challenge design boundaries and aesthetics, and have the freedom to truly create pieces that flower from their soul. Every season, this show, gives the fashion crowd a quick glimpse into the future of design.

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The grad students who showed this time around worked as teams; pairing textile designers with fashion designers. There was also a group project- the Brittex Fabrics Project.

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Brittex Fabrics is a 10,000-square foot building in San Francisco with miles and miles of fabrics and trims. Third semester fashion design students created seven distinct looks using houndstooth, glen plaid, wool gauze, gingham twill, mohair, boucle, and wool crepe- and actually created up-to-the-minute looks.

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Jonathan Baker, Aliena Gorter, Phuong Tran, April Howard, Irawati Salim, Bora Han, Eun Jung Kim, Krista Nunn, Bethany Meuleners, Aura Taylor, Cara Chiappetta, Steven Lai, Hyo Sun An, Naomi Sutton and Hui-Chun Chang all proved to be markedly prescient on fabrics and styles. Glen plaid and houndstooth checks in all sizes seemed to be in every designers portfolio this season. Qianya Martin (fashion and knitwear design) was the first of the AAU crowd to send clothing down the runway. Her looks included ethereal pieces inspired by the tide pools of Agate Beach in Bolinas, Clafornia, with a palette of soft pastels in blue-gray; cream semi-sheer fabrics co-mingled with sturdy boucle. The general style was oversized elegance. Heather Howard (fashion design) and Cat Janky (textile design) collaborated on printed oversized outfits and dresses with an early prairie feel to them. Scott McFarland (a sculptor turned menswear designer) was inspired by Art Deco patterns, metal work, architecture and the androgynous fashions of the ’20s. His knits were textured, chunky and looked comfortable. I-Shan Liou (fashion and knitwear design) and Myoung Hee Kim (textile design) created dresses with prints inspired by Sam Francis’ paintings of earth, water, air and fire. Emily Melville (fashion design), and Ivanka Georgieva (textile design) draped textiles on dress forms to create three dimensional looks. Ivanka combined screenprinting, dye, iron and pigment discharge to evoke the landscape paintings of Leslie Snows. «Back 1 [2] 3 4 5 6 Next» Email

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