Loosen NSF wheel bolts Jack up and axle stand car (approx 24” is perfect) Block back wheels Remove NSF wheel

Remove under-body pan View with the wheel off before removing the inner wheel arch liner.

Remove inner wheel arch NSF – you will see the lower half of the end panel to the gearbox

Disconnect cable and pull through into wheel arch – make secure

Need photo

Undo jubilee clip to throttle body and remove airfilter box Remove filler plug

Place tarpaulin on floor and bucket for fluid Undo Drain plug and allow to drain into bucket.

Drain existing fluid leave to drip out

Disconnect Battery Remove battery using 13mm socket to release fabric restraint

Remove battery box ( 4 x T40 torx)

Place jack under front of sub-frame (center and take the weight) Loosen sub-frame bolt on NSF

Loosen Sub-frame bolt on NSF

Place jack and block of wood under engine Support weight Loosen 4 bolts that attach engine to uppermost mount (Loosen DO NOT REMOVE)

Using judgement lower each jack in turn until you are happy you have sufficient access to the end panel of the box. Flange on engine mount

I lowered until the uppermost 12mm bolt were clear of the engine mount by about 3-4mm.

Uppermost bolts

Using 12mm socket loosen all 12 mm bolts a little at a time as there is a spring like effect when all bolts are undone, Using 17mm socket loosen the 2 bolts in the upper right hand quadrant on the end panel (there is a group of 4 – ONLY UNDO THE LEFT HAND 2 BOLTS, these also impact the direct clutch and we don’t want to play with that.) **Place a tray on an old towel on top of the tarpaulin under the end panel and the gearbox as when this is opened it will release fluid.

Need photo

From the engine bay just right of the engine mount we loosened earlier and using a large flat headed screwdriver use the flange to separate the end panel from the box, when this separates it does so with a little force so be careful – This is why the bolts were loosened and not removed yet as it stops the end panel from popping off and slipping onto the internal components.

When released it should look like this You can go ahead and remove the bolts now, take note that the 2 17mm bolts have a small rubber seal against them, these will need replacing when put back together ( i picked 2 up from a local gearbox specialist as part of a seal kit for about 2 pounds) Wipe up the mess.

Carefully - remove the end panel through the wheel arch making sure you look for the end race bearing as it has been known to be stuck to the inside of the end panel.

Race bearing

Unclip the wiring to the sensor and using a 10mm socket remove the 2 copper/bronze bolts holding the sensor in place at the bottom of the gearing – take note of how this comes out.

Remove the sensor – clean and put safely out of the way.

Remove the spring assembly surrounding the reverse drum – taking note of how it aligns around the main drum. (Complete frame to the rear).

Carefully draw out the main drum, This will not be just the drum as it is attached to the clutch and housing also.

Replace any extra gearing (carefully) that may be attached to the main drum back into the gearbox as it is not required to be taken out Should look like this

A look at the drum (Front and Rear)

In order to remove this back plate we will need to unclip the circlip surrounding the out rim

Remove this clip to lift out the back plate

With the back plate removed we can see the complexity , quite outstanding. We can lift out the centre piece

Look for the race bearing when removing the centre piece Note the position and which way up.

List out the gearing to reveal the inner clutch and a first look at the inner workings

Release this clip to allow removal of the clutch components, keep these as a complete unit and remember which way they are facing in the assembly. Its also worth noting that they are all aligned, this will be useful for the re-assembly Clutch components

With the clutch components removed, revealing the next layer..

Next is to remove the upper layer that is sitting on the main drum. I poked a small screwdriver into the holes in the side to release a circlip and the whole assembly lifted out I left it as one piece and put it to the side.

A small screwdriver here released the circlip releasing the assembly Leaving a just the main drum assembly left.

This is tricky, the idea is to remove this circlip, in order to manage that the entire centre piece needs to be compressed into the drum to allow a decent release. I am not going to put a picture up of how I released the circlip as it was not safe and do not recommend it to anyone else – resulting in my needing to buy a new circlip.

Compress the outer ring to allow a decent shot at getting the circlip off.

Once the clip is off you can see the spring assembly underneath, remove when ready.

With the spring removed

Lift out the central component and keep an eye out for bits of broken seal, when I lifted this item out it shredded the seal on the outside edge. (The picture is from the underside)

Leaving just the offending piston left to remove, Just lift it out wipe it down and have a look.

One Reverse piston……..time for a closer look

Cracked…….

Parts I needed for rebuild Wynns Black gasket maker ( good for 260+ degrees) JF506E.PIS01 JF506E.CIR03, a replacement circlip for the one I damaged during the compress the remove bit JF506E.ORK01 – rubber seal kit for the JF506E.PIS01 and damaged seal from the other component. 6ltrs Texaco 402N from Landrover dealer. Comparison of the old and new parts (Old is on the right).

Put back together in reverse order Putting in the new seals and circlip as you go. Take care and good luck. Don’t forget to clean your edges for the new gasket End panel

Gearbox

With gasket applied